DANCING LEDGE


The quarry and sea-washed ledges, popular with families, walkers, beginners, groups, and sport climbers, is a familiar place for many. Climbers have bouldered and soloed here for decades, long before bouldering was trendy and the invention of bouldering mats. The venue is no longer in vogue for bouldering though there are some fine problems which are worth the walk particularly if combined with a family day out. The picturesque setting makes this a great spot for picnicking and swimming in the summer.

Routes

43 boulder problems (f3...f7A+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Quarry
The bouldering in the quarry is focused on the tiered roofs of the overhanging left-hand side.
17
Bouldering
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Lower Tier - Left
At the far left-hand side of the lower tier (looking in) is a low bulge with some powerful lowball...
5
Bouldering
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

Lower Tier - Mexican Wave Area
Left of the descent (looking in) is a small rectangular cave with a clutch of bolted routes forcing...
1
Bouldering
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

Dry in the Rain
Lower Tier - Right
The area right of the descent (looking in) is characterised by a wave of blocky rock with a...
20
Bouldering
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

Tidal
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