PALIONISOS


The hidden bay of Palionisos on Kalymnos's north coast is now easily reached by road, but previously this secluded valley was only accessible by sea. There are four cliffs here. Secret Garden is an excellent crag that was developed in secret, but is now very much on the circuit and has become popular both for the shade on offer and the great climbing. More visible are the prominent Red Wall and the Beach and Bay crags above the tiny village. There are still undeveloped cliffs here, as well as three new bars/tavernas. It is also a great swimming spot.

Routes

109 sport routes (4c...8b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Secret Garden
A superb north-facing wall that is a good choice in hot weather if there is a bit of a breeze...
51
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

30 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Red Wall
The prominent south-facing red wall halfway down the valley to Palionisos. All the routes are...
23
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
Ilias Pillar
The obvious dome-shaped buttress up and left of the Palionisos Beach and Bay crags. A fine sunny...
9
Winter
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Beach
A sunny wall of sharp rock. The routes are still rather prickly but will clean up with a bit of...
29
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
Bay
A fine piece of rock, currently the most easterly that has been developed in the valley. All the...
18
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
Exo Syki
A good crag tucked away round to the right when looking out to sea from Palionisos. The crag is in...
14
Winter
Sun and shade
Level

30 mins

Seepage
sheltered
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