TELENDOS


Most climbers visit Telendos at least once on their climbing trips to Kalymnos. There is a lot of good climbing on the island, and the approach by boat generates a superb ambience, adding hugely to the day's activity. The island is also worth a visit on a rest day; it has some lovely beaches, nice restaurants plus a sense of peace that can be hard to find on the scooter-ridden mainland.
The huge South Face has some popular long multi-pitch classics and a number of other areas which are seldom busy. There are also a couple of minor cliffs that are approached by walking from the main village, but the most popular climbing is around on the shady north side. When very hot it can get really busy here. The number of scooters parked up at the jetty will be an indication of how busy it might be, though don't forget to factor in the walkers.
Much of the rock on these cliffs is very sharp and it is worth keeping an eye open for suspect bolts - the marine environment is far from ideal. Any form of corrosion is a warning that all might not be well, and differential corrosion between the stud, bolt and hanger is especially worrying.

Routes

343 sport routes (3c...9a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Princess Canyon
A remote venue on the sunny side of Telendos, which sees few visitors because of the length of the...
26
Sport
No sun
Up and down

60 mins

sheltered
Crystal Cave
A remote venue that sees few visitors due to the difficulty of the approach and the fact that most...
14
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

60 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Crescendo Cave Area
This huge face has a handful of quality routes, although only the multi-pitch ones are popular....
10
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

60 mins

Windy
Scylla and Charybdis
A solitary multi-pitch route roughly right of centre in the vast South Face, taking the wall left...
1
Sport
No sun
Uphill

60 mins

Windy
Inspiration
A huge and complex area, with a massive amount of potential and some of the most amazing rock...
12
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

60 mins

sheltered
Titan Towers
The impressive pillars and groove on the hillside below the Inspiration cave have been developed...
6
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

45 mins

Windy
Prometheus
A multi-pitch offering - fully equipped with titanium glue-in bolts. The mountainside faces south...
1
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

35 mins

Windy
Snow White
A rather underwhelming little crag, but it is in a sunny setting, dries quickly and is the easiest...
15
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Windy
Three Caves
This is the appropriately named crag that runs diagonally up the hillside towards the summit of...
29
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

35 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
North Face
The imposing shadowy North Face offers a couple of shady multi-pitch routes. Both are bolted but...
2
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

60 mins

Windy
Underworld
The highest crag on the north side is the steep cave of Underworld. It has brilliant routes on...
7
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

30 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Saint Constantine
Two small and neglected walls that are left of the prominent white chapel of Saint Constantine,...
24
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

25 mins

sheltered
Miltiadis
A clean dome of rock on the hillside just above the path that runs up to the chapel of Saint...
30
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
The Stronghold
High above Miltiadis, and on the same level as Underworld, is a small crag with some strong lines...
12
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

30 mins

Windy
Eros
A huge intimidating wall above and left of the popular crag of Irox. The left-hand side has nine...
19
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Irox
A fine crag in a seaside setting with a fun approach. The crag gets afternoon shade and the wide...
38
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

2 mins

sheltered
Pescatore
A decent shady crag above the sea, with a nice easy approach march assuming you use a charter boat....
35
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

10 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Glaros
A steep and intimidating crag on a balcony, up and right of Pescatore, high above the sea. The are...
19
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

20 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Lambda
A fine huge crag set above the sea, above and right of Pescatore. The crag has a great set of...
43
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

20 mins

Seepage
sheltered
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