GLACIER DU TOUR


The Cabane du Trient is often approached from the Refuge Albert Premier, through either the Fenêtre du Pissoir, the Col du Tour or Col Supérieur du Tour, and a long walk (allow a full day from Le Tour to the hut) across the Trient Plateau. It can also be approached from Champex, above Orsières in Switzerland, using the Breya chairlift. Take the lift to the summit of La Breya and follow the wonderful traverse path beneath the Col de la Breya and into the Combe d'Orny. Continue past Lac d'Orny, stop at the Cabane d'Orny for a drink and then continue onto the Glacier d'Orny. Stay on the right-hand side, heading due west until under the hut, then swing around up to it, 2.5 hours after leaving the chairlift.
A popular option is to spend a night in each hut, thereby seeing more scenery and making more of a journey out of the whole experience. Generally most climbers who stay in both huts begin with a night in the Refuge Albert Premier, climb a route on the Aiguille du Tour or the Purtscheller and then descend for a night at the Cabane du Trient. From there, a good plan is to descend back to Le Tour via a route on the Petite Fourche or Tête Blanche.
A popular area for budding alpinists, the Glacier du Tour is home to some superb low-grade routes. It is also home to a few longer and more serious propositions on the Aiguille du Chardonnet, which make a good target for those with a couple of alpine seasons under their belts. As if all that wasn't enough, there is also the classic rock ridge traverse of the Purtscheller South Ridge.
If the lift is closed, it is possible to walk from Le Tour by crossing the fields at Les Granges and following a steep zigzag path to Pte. 1721m. Continue along the path to pass above the Cascade du Picheu and reach a small, dusty path up the crest of the moraine ridge to the north of the Glacier du Tour. Follow this to where it meets the larger path from top of the Autannes chairlift at Pte. 2484m and continue to the hut.
The walk takes roughly 5 hours from Le Tour to the hut.

Routes

17 winter routes (F...TD)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Aiguille du Tour
Combining a night in a hut, a glacier crossing, minimal technicality and a stunning view from the...
6
Winter
No sun
Up and down

110 mins

Aiguille Purtscheller
A fun route which is likely to be quiet. The rock is excellent throughout and the view across to...
1
Winter
Lots of sun!
Up and down

120 mins

Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche
A popular pair of peaks that are used by many guides as part of their acclimatisation programme for...
5
Winter
No sun
Up and down

120 mins

Aiguille du Chardonnet
One of the great summits of the Mont Blanc Massif, the Forbes Arête and Migot Spur should be high on
5
Winter
Lots of sun!
Up and down

180 mins

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