MONT BLANC DU TACUL


For a mountain to merit its own chapter, it has to be pretty special, and Mont Blanc du Tacul is certainly that. The reality of course is that many of the routes described here are on proud summits of their own, but their proximity to the Tacul make it appropriate to include them here ahead of anywhere else. These outlying peaks, such as the Grand Capucin and Pointe Adolphe Rey are often referred to as the "Tacul Satellites".
Mont Blanc du Tacul itself can be climbed via an easy (but sometimes serac threatened) snow slope, but it is most famous for the huge variety and quality of long rock and ice climbs that make their way up its flanks. To climb a route from every page of this chapter would give you a pretty decent alpine CV!

Routes

21 winter routes (PD...ED2)
18 trad routes (AD+...ED3)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Arête du Diable
A fantastic journey amongst some of the finest scenery in the Alps - this is about as good as...
1
Trad
No sun
Up and down

60 mins

Chandelle and Trident du Tacul
At first glance these two summits look insignificant next to their awe inspiring neighbour the...
5
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

70 mins

Grand Capucin
The most iconic of all the Tacul's satellite peaks, the Grand Capucin is rightly celebrated as one...
4
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

70 mins

Petit Capucin - Le Roi de Siam
An excellent route with a stunning final pitch. Officially the peak is called 'Le Roi de Siam' but...
1
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

70 mins

Petit Capucin - North Face
The shady north face of the Petit Capucin has two excellent, popular routes which go through some...
2
Winter
Sun and shade
Up and down

40 mins

Pointe Adolphe Rey
Pointe Adolphe Rey has two routes which take stunning lines up perfect golden granite that should...
2
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

50 mins

Pyramide du Tacul
A relatively small pyramid in the shadow of the East Face. It has a great route offering low-grade...
1
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

55 mins

Gervasutti Pillar
Little more than an hour's walk from the Aiguille du Midi lift are two stunning long routes, one on...
2
Winter
Morning sun
Up and down

70 mins

East Face
The East Face has a set of amazing routes which offer mixed climbing at different times of year. On...
5
Winter
Morning sun
Up and down

35 mins

Pointes Lachenal - South Face - Mixed
With a very easy approach and a pleasant combination of mixed climbing and sun, these routes are...
3
Winter
No sun
Up and down

35 mins

Pointes Lachenal - South Face - Rock
Pointes Lachenal has three superb rock climbs on perfect, south-facing granite. They are generally...
3
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

60 mins

Pointes Lachenal - Traverse
A fun little traverse which can easily be combined with the Arête des Cosmiques and/or the Arête a L
1
Winter
Lots of sun!
Up and down

60 mins

Triangle du Tacul
This is a popular venue and it is easy to see why because good mixed climbing can be found here...
8
Winter
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

50 mins

North Face
A popular route but one which varies in conditions. It is used by many of the other routes as a...
1
Winter
No sun
Up and down

50 mins

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