LES GAILLANDS


A sunny and easily accessed crag, Les Gaillands is the polar opposite of most alpine routes and as such is a popular place for climbers to head when they fancy a day off from the stress and strain of mountaineering. The climbing style at the crag is quite unusual, with friction generally being quite low and most of the holds being pinches or side-pulls. The result is that the routes take a bit of getting used to and the grades can initially feel hard. However, the views are so stunning and the ambience so good that even if you have to drop a grade or two, Les Gaillands is well worth a day of your trip.
The crag is not especially neatly bolted. Some of the lines, especially those on Le Petit Gailland, Le Grand Gailland and Frendo areas, are quite hard to follow. As such, we've only marked the 'proper' lines which can be climbed from top to bottom as logical routes and we have taken the liberty of naming some of these after the features they follow when there were no names recorded for them.

Routes

105 sport routes (3c...7c)
1 sport route (6a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Frendo
The quietest sector at Les Gaillands has a few good routes plus some wandering and complex lines....
14
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
Chasseurs
A small selection of steep routes. Being surrounded by high trees, the crag is difficult to...
10
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

4 mins

Forestiers
A nice little area of technical slab climbs, this area is often slightly quieter than the Petit and...
21
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

3 mins

Vipères
This is an area for practising multi-pitch techniques, with numerous lines of bolts and virtually...
6
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

2 mins

Le Grand Gailland
A good area for lower grade climbers, with plenty of scope of practising multi-pitch techniques....
20
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

1 min

L'Echelle
This selection of easier routes is often busy but worth seeking out when quiet. They are situated...
12
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

1 min

Le Petit Gailland
The right-hand side of Les Gaillands has a steeper section of crag which is just as complex as the...
23
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

1 min

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