MORDOR - THE LOST WORLD


The Lost World and Mordor are about as out there and surreal as any area of the quarry. These two great excavations sit above the even bigger hole of Twll Mawr and require complex approaches relying on ladders, tunnels and the odd abseil. Although the classics are few and far between, the routes that are worth climbing, more than deserve the effort it takes to reach them.
Recent developments have also increased the appeal of the place with a set of good mid-grade sport routes being added to the upper section of The Lost World. This is also home to one of the stages of Snakes and Ladders (p.ยงยงยง).
Sadly the rock is not great and a number of routes have fallen down, often in a quite spectacular way. This particularly applies to the east side of both Mordor and The Lost World and any routes there should come with a bit of a health warning.

Routes

27 trad routes (VS...E6)
22 sport routes (5c...8b)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
_
^
^
^
 
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Mordor
The walls around the pass have a few sport routes and some very adventurous trad routes. The...
18
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
The Druid Face
This impressive hidden hole has been troubled by massive rockfalls over the years, which have kept...
6
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

0 mins

Abseil
sheltered
Heaven Walls
A great area with plenty of routes. The two new sport routes Saruman and Sauron and the classic...
10
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

0 mins

Abseil
The Balcony
A remote location which has become an appealing destination for those after mid-grade routes in a...
8
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

0 mins

The Cutting
The narrow cutting behind the front face of The Balcony has some decent sport routes. It faces...
7
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

0 mins

Seepage
What do these symbols mean?