NEVER NEVER LAND


Never Never Land has been a major venue in the quarries for some time, with its eponymous slab offering some real classic slate frighteners. Whilst the area has kept these bold routes, recent development has added a flourish of new sport routes across the grades.
Hawkeye and Fresh Air Crack are gentle introductory routes. If you want something more demanding then it is worth looking at Slate of the Heart. Never Never Land has many worthwhile routes from 4 to 7a, as well as some bold offerings like Kubla Khan, Short Stories and, of course, Never Never Land. A new area since the last guide is Over There Land which has a couple of good hard sport routes, the best of which is Cavity Wall. Finally, Patellaectomy is classic (if a little bizarre) and some newer sport routes like A Little Pale and Offa's are worth a look. There are even some totally out there dry tooling routes for snow-sick winter climbers to enjoy!

Routes

8 winter routes (M6...M9)
26 trad routes (S...XS)
31 sport routes (4c...7c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Nuremburg
A great area with some good sport routes that have superseded the older bold routes. Fresh Air is...
7
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Never Never Land Slab
A great area, with some good modern sport routes and older run-out slabs.
22
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

18 mins

sheltered
Lower Tier
This very small slab is situated directly below the Never Never Land Slab. The routes are short and...
5
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Shame and Embarrassment Wall
A large and loose section of wall that has a tendency to fall down. This is the third topo shot in...
7
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Over There Land
This wall has recently been developed as a sport climbing venue, with a few 7th grade routes....
5
Sport
Early morning sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Shock the Monkey Area
Tucked away in a cul-de-sac, this area is easy to miss. While the main adjacent sector's eponymous...
10
Winter
Afternoon sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Patellaectomy
Tucked away in a cul-de-sac, this area is easy to miss. The route Patellaectomy is a must for total...
10
Sport
Morning sun
Level

18 mins

sheltered
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    For NEVER NEVER LAND

    Swiss Air
    "'Swiss Air' is marked incorrectly in the guidebook topo, the line shown is 'Hot ..." 12/Nov

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