NANTLLE VALLEY


The Nantlle Valley is the forgotten area of slate climbing, almost totally ignored by the Slateheads save for a dedicated few who explored these holes and found a small set of rather adventurous routes. Ray Kay's The Purple Tailed Love Fish was a classic of its genre, but has sadly fallen down. All that remains now across the various holes are a few forgotten trad routes. Some of these look like they might be worth repeating, but in the main these quarries are something of a unknown backwater. They may well yield some exciting new routes to anyone wanting to explore. While some may well be climbable on trad gear, turning up with a drill and some bolts would probably help create more interest from other climbers. Also, some areas look good but would need lower-offs way below the top of the crag to avoid deadly top sections. An additional drawback is that many of the holes are flooded and require an abseil to a ledge or hanging belay to start the routes.

Routes

5 trad routes (VS...E4)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Car Dumping Pool
Delightfully named! This pool has a couple of claimed routes but not much else to offer. Walk east...
2
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

0 mins

Abseil
sheltered
Dorothea Quarry - Trev's Slab
This infamous hole has a single route. It is also a popular unofficial scuba diving location which...
1
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

0 mins

Abseil
sheltered
Gllt Y Fedw
This hole actually has some routes, although no-one knows what they are and they are ripe for...
2
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
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