GIDEON QUARRIES


The Gideon Quarries are a real slate backwater. This is partly due to the more erratic nature of the rock - whilst there is some good rock hidden in this working, there is also a lot of loose and friable choss. If adventure is your thing, there are some really fine routes and it is a great place to hide from the crowds on busy days.
The lowest working is home to the off-width challenges of The Mancer Direct and Liquid Armbar, if you fancy yourself as a wideboy or girl. Just above the road is Film Set Quarry and the great slabs of The Second Coming and Near Dark (After Dark). The bridging testpiece Gender Bender is also worth a look, and The Bone People and Synthetic Life offer some steep climbing - for slate. The Gideon Slab classics are Giddy Variations... and Pandora Plays Sax, and right up at the back is Cracking Up. There are also several isolated sport routes worth hunting out.

Routes

1 winter route (M8)
49 trad routes (VS...XS)
10 sport routes (5c...7c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Mancer Quarry
The lowest quarry is a bit esoteric and better known as a local wild swimming spot. There are a...
4
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

0 mins

Abseil
sheltered
Damocles Slab
On the north side of the quarry is a white slab with no approach from below. A pair of disused...
4
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

25 mins

Abseil
sheltered
The Land that Time Forgot
This is the subsidiary quarry adjoining the Film Set Quarry and separated by a ridge of rock and...
2
Trad
No sun
Up and down

12 mins

Abseil
sheltered
Film Set Quarry
This quarry is so named as it was a major location for a cult film 'The Keep'. It has a few good...
11
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

0 mins

Abseil
sheltered
Gideon Terrace Area
Some of the sport routes on Gideon Terrace are totally different to the rest of the climbing in...
10
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

0 mins

Restricted Access
Gideon Slab
This slab is North Wales' answer to the Etive Slabs - long run-out pitches are the order of the...
11
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

The Bone People Area
The Bone People is one of the finest E4s in North Wales, but few people seem to know about it. Add...
5
Trad
Evening sun
Up and down

0 mins

Abseil
Seepage
sheltered
Restricted Access
Shotgun Quarry
A small quarry with a couple of routes and a long-standing project which could be quite good.
2
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Chwarl Plas Goch
A small quarry with a couple of technical sport climbs.
2
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

0 mins

Seepage
The Rain Temple (Ddol Quarry)
This is the smaller quarry to the east of the Wall in the Hole Quarry. A single clean slab is...
1
Sport
Morning sun
Up and down

0 mins

Abseil
Wall in the Hole Quarry
This working is split by a massive drystone wall that separates the upper from the lower half.
3
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

20 mins

Cefn Du Quarry
High up on the Gideon side is a wide working which has a few routes and a lot of loose scree.
4
Trad
Evening sun
Up and down

0 mins

Chwarel Fawr
The highest working offers shelter and tranquillity but nothing really worth climbing.
1
Trad
Evening sun
Up and down

0 mins

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