UPPER WILDERNESS


A interesting set of cliffs in as wild a setting as you might expect from being cut into the moor called Wilderness. The routes on Rob's Rocks are short but the rock is clean and a couple of hours of pleasant sport is available here for climbers operating in the lower grades. The Charnel Stones' routes are generally more serious and (even) less popular. Both cliffs get the afternoon sun. Boulderers might be interested in the huge roof that lies to the west of the main cliff; there appears to be no indication that it has ever been climbed. The nearby Duck Stones are also worth a visit. Rob's Rocks is in a sunny setting and its relatively easy approach makes it a good choice for a short day. It has a better set of lower grade climbs than most cliffs in the area. The classic scramble of Wilderness Gully East lies opposite the cliff and is worth a look at too. From its top a right turn leads back along the moor crest to Wimberry and then the parking by the reservoir.

Routes

42 trad routes (M...E7)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Charnel Stones
Halfway up the approach road to Rob's Rocks the straggling outcrop of The Charnel Stones can be...
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

30 mins

Windy
Rob's Rocks
The routes are spread across the crag following good lines on the separate buttresses. The best of...
21
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

30 mins

Windy
Wilderness Rocks
Opposite Rob's Rocks is Wilderness Rocks which is north-facing and often out of condition. When...
1
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

30 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For UPPER WILDERNESS

    Nice Edge
    "Best route here with several interesting moves. VS 4c (maybe 5a for the less ta..." 02/Aug

    Cave Crack
    "Weird route - great fun. Just a shame the top section is so easy." 18/Aug

    The Nose
    "Campusing above bad landing with no gear - feels a lot harder than VS! The supp..." 13/Jul

    Wilderness Gully East
    "Nice way to get to the crag or as part of a fell run, excellent in any condition..." 13/Mar

    The Nose
    "Fun Fun Fun, he who dangles dares!!!" 25/Jan

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