Birchen remains one of the most popular venues in the Peak due to its friendly atmosphere and good collection of low-grade routes. The place has always been a favourite with groups and this long-standing popularity has led to the wearing of many of the already rounded holds. Quite a number of the routes have slippery and awkward starts but get yourself going and things often ease rapidly with height. Summer weekends can be extremely busy, but if you leave the main section and head rightwards to the more secluded buttresses, you will probably find a bit of solitude.The majority of routes at Birchen have names of a nautical nature linked to the monument on the cliff top, erected to celebrate Nelson's victory at the Battle of Trafalgar back in 1805.
Routes
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164 trad routes (M...E6) 1 boulder problem (VS) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |         | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other |
| Far Left The short walls at the left-hand extremity of the cliff are less popular than the rest of Birchen... |
11 | Trad |
Early morning sun |
Uphill 10 mins |
Windy |
| Emma's Slab The first section of the main part of the cliff is home to several worthwhile climbs, mostly cracks... |
17 | Trad |
Early morning sun |
Uphill 10 mins |
Windy |
| Nelson's Slab A couple of fine buttresses and an attractive hanging slab that is difficult to access ensure this... |
15 | Trad |
No sun |
Up and down 0 mins |
Windy |
| Sail Buttress With a steep north-facing wall and an attractive valley face, Sail Buttress is a fine lump of rock... |
18 | Trad |
No sun |
Up and down 0 mins |
Windy |
| The Promenade to Trafalgar Wall One of the most popular beginners' areas on grit with the fine clean (and slippery) slab of The... |
16 | Trad |
No sun |
Up and down 0 mins |
Windy |
| Stoker's Wall A short wall split by a series of cracks and with a bunch of low grade climbs. The area provides a... |
14 | Trad |
Early morning sun |
Uphill 15 mins |
Windy |
| Copenhagen Wall The low, undercut face of Copenhagen Wall is taller than it used to be - erosion of the ground in... |
16 | Trad |
Early morning sun |
Uphill 15 mins |
Windy |
| Tar's Wall to Barbette Buttress To the right of the Fo'c'sle area is series of short slabby walls and grooves ending at a prominent... |
21 | Trad |
No sun |
Up and down 0 mins |
Windy |
| Seasick Slab Up and right of the prow of Barbette Buttress is a short clean wall of lovely rock above a level... |
7 | Trad |
Early morning sun |
Uphill 15 mins |
Windy |
| Wooden Leg Wall A few interesting routes in an out-of-the-way setting. The place gets a bit overgrown with bracken... |
10 | Trad |
Early morning sun |
Uphill 15 mins |
Windy |
| Kismet Buttress Birchen's last gasp is not a bad effort. Sheltered and usually quiet, the place is worth a couple... |
20 | Trad |
No sun |
Up and down 0 mins |
Windy |
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