PEX HILL


This small hole in the ground holds an important place in the hearts of Merseyside climbers; it has easy access, great rock and is home to a myriad of problems and mini-routes. I lived in Liverpool for a year way back in the 1970s and a short apprenticeship at Pex Hill served me well, the steep and fingery style of the climbing here translating well to Welsh volcanics. Have no doubt, time spent honing finger strength and technique at Pex will be repaid in full. Many of the routes are soloed by the competent (with or without mats) although top-roping is also quite popular here (please don't belay to the railings) despite the fact that the majority of the climbs are less then 10 metres high. The reason is obvious - except for a few exceptions the routes here are effectively unprotected and often very blank with no rest ledges and little prospect of rescue!

Routes

62 trad routes (VS...E7)
59 boulder problems (f3+...f8A)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Dateline Wall
The recessed bay to the right of the entry has a whole series of hard and bold face climbs plus the...
19
Trad
Sun and shade
Downhill

5 mins

sheltered
Pisa Wall
The most popular section of the quarry with the polish and the chalk to prove it. Turn right at the...
29
Bouldering
Early morning sun
Downhill

5 mins

sheltered
Lady Jane Wall
The long wall to the left of the entrance has many good routes though a high percentage are hard....
43
Trad
Early morning sun
Downhill

5 mins

sheltered
The Web
The walls either side of the long right-angled corner have a fine selection of routes across the...
16
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Downhill

5 mins

sheltered
The Rack
One hidden gem of a route on the far side of the quarry is worth a look.
7
Bouldering
Lots of sun!
Downhill

5 mins

sheltered
Memorial Wall
Past some overgrown routes is an open corner with a prominent sharp arete on its left-hand side....
8
Bouldering
Lots of sun!
Downhill

5 mins

sheltered
What do these symbols mean?
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For PEX HILL

    The Abort
    "HVS 5a, like One Step, but with a balancy top-out." 02/Jun

    Catalepsy
    "tried this last yr and couldn't quite manage it. Since then a some vigorous 'cle..." 25/Jun

    Harvey Wallbanger
    "Definitely called Harvey Warbanger in the old Al Rouse guide (Pex Hill section b..." 30/Oct

    Hart's Arete
    "I think the start of Hart's is one problem that demonstrates the differences in ..." 26/Oct

    Hart's Arete
    "E3 6b *** (OS Lead, no mats). A very fine route which is well worth leading. The..." 02/May

    Staminade
    "The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he did not exi..." 15/Apr

    Staminade
    "I stand corrected, oh great one. So you still exist and haven't turned into an u..." 30/Jan

    Staminade
    "Having read the comment on Staminade not being led...nope it was lead regularly ..." 21/Jan

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