West of the ancient town of Sax is a series of limestone towers overlooking the wide valley of the Vinalopo. The crags here have been known as Sax and Cabreras over the years and to confuse things even further it is also occasionally referred to by the name of the central showpiece tower known as Peñas del Rey.
Most of the climbing is slabby, with the occasional bulging bit, and the grades range from quality fours and fives to technical sixes and a couple of top-notch sevens. Many of the pitches are long and there are some excellent two-pitch climbs here. Sax has been climbed on for many years, and consequently some of the routes are now polished.
Away to the south west is Sector Cumbre which has long wall pitches mainly in the 6a to 6b+ range. Sadly this crag is bird-banned from December to June, has a long and steep approach walk and has never been popular. It is not covered in this book.


63 sport routes (4a...7b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Pinnacle and North
The right-hand side of the Peñas del Rey has a prominent pinnacle standing in front of the main crag
Sun to mid-afternoon

15 mins

Sector Cumbre
The fine crag of Sax has an extra sector not covered in the book Spain : Costa Blanca. Sector...
Lots of sun!

20 mins

Restricted Access
Peñas del Rey
The main climbing at Sax is centred on a fine tall tower known as the Peñas del Rey. The routes here
Morning sun

10 mins

What do these symbols mean?