SCUGDALE


This lovely little edge is the most popular venue on the North York Moors and with good reason. An easy approach, a sunny aspect and an excellent collection of climbs across the grades all add to the attraction of the place. The crag is not very high and this has led to it being somewhat overlooked in the past, but what it does offer tends to be on beautifully featured rock, with excellent holds, cracks and breaks.
It isn't all sweetness and light though, many routes are tricky to protect, holds do occasionally snap and the landings are often poor. This combination has led to some serious accidents here in recent years, so please TAKE CARE.
Scugdale is the name of the valley. There are actually two crags here: Scot Crags and Barker's Crags. Only Scot Crags are covered in this book.

Routes

118 trad routes (M...E4)
1 boulder problem (f6B)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Uncles Nose to Scot Buttress
Three buttresses on the far left with an interesting collection of routes. This area is usually...
22
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

Romulus and Remus to Adam and Eve
A series of small buttresses presenting some good walls and aretes including the Prow and the two...
26
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

The Pulpit to Barker's Buttress
On the left are the stacked block overhangs of the Pulpit, and to the right the large leaning tower...
47
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

8 mins

Holly Tree Buttress
As the years roll by the tree gets ever bigger and the routes around it disappear under the spiky...
8
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

6 mins

Beginners' Slab
The final pair of buttresses are popular with beginners and not just because they are the nearest...
16
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

6 mins

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  • Latest Comments

    For SCUGDALE

    Main Mast Crack
    "Much to my disappointment (I'd even donned my Aldi thrutching jacket in preparat..." 23/Jul

    Pingers
    "Is this the only VS with a one finger pull-up?" 10/Dec

    The Shelf
    "A classic highball sprint." 25/Sep

    The Prow
    "'Lifting a Fridge'it couldn't be put any better!" 13/Sep

    Pets' Corner
    "Yeah, got to be worth 2 stars at least. Certainly one of the best routes I've do..." 12/Sep

    Pets' Corner
    "better than zeta wall" 12/Sep

    Prickly Rib
    "Up the left hand side of the rib, surely? Though might be HS up the right hand ..." 26/Jun

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