BOWDEN DOORS


Perhaps the archetypal Northumbrian crag, Bowden Doors has everything; over 150 routes right across the grade spectrum, wonderful rock, easy accessibility, a great outlook, the afternoon sun and loads of bouldering. With all this it is hardly surprising that the place gets popular; if you find it a bit busy then it is always worth heading further along the crag to find a more peaceful spot.

Routes

108 trad routes (M...E6)
18 boulder problems (f5...f8A)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Scoops
The far left-hand end of Bowden Doors sees less traffic than most of the rest of the cliff, though...
13
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

Windy
The Wave
A magnificent feature, a wide wall of impeccable rock topped off by a rolling wave of rippled...
17
Trad
No sun
Level

5 mins

Windy
Barbarian
A couple of lesser buttresses towards the left-hand end of the cliff, though with a smattering of...
12
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

Windy
Banana Wall and Tiger's Wall
These two adjacent faces have a great set of routes that have climbing that is a bit slabbier than...
15
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

Windy
Lorraine and Castle Crack
A couple of fine buttresses with a selection of worthwhile climbs and a couple of real Bowden...
13
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

Windy
Castle Wall and Scorpion
The small bulbous buttress under the wall and the wider face to the right has some interesting...
14
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

Windy
Leaning Grooves and Canada Crack
The central section of the cliff has many fine climbs up interesting features and on good rock. All...
14
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

Windy
The Overhanging Crack
The section of rock to the left of the Main Wall is less extensive and less impressive. Despite...
7
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

Windy
Main Wall
The first section of the crag reached from the road consists of a couple of steep walls that...
21
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

3 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For BOWDEN DOORS

    Poseidon Adventure
    "A small hold on the top wall has broken off (Jan/Mar 15). this makes the (usual)..." 03/Mar top50

    Yellow Peril
    "Not a route to fall off.....ankle smasher...at best." 12/Jun

    Tiger's Wall
    "VS in all guides I've seen. Is about the same as lorraine in difficulty" 22/Nov top50

    Russet Groove
    "Excellent diff. My first ever lead and still an exellent route!" 10/Apr top50

    Klondyke Wall
    "You have to go a fair way before getting any gear, after which its all over. Ni..." 16/Nov

    Jock Strap
    "I'm 8ft 2 and thought it was V1" 20/Oct

    Scorpion
    "not one move on this climb is more than 4b. the top crux is protected by wires, ..." 19/Oct

    Lorraine
    "I'm a thug, and it was a piece of piss to solo. It's still clearly and objective..." 26/Jul top50

    Lorraine
    "HVS. End of debate you thugs....................." 21/Aug top50

    Tiger's Wall
    "It is HVS but it isn't Northumberland HVS! Sacrelidge!" 29/Mar top50

    Jock Strap
    "No harder than the original" 06/Mar

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