PIANOKRAKKEN AREA


Pianokrakken (the Piano Stool) is one of the most popular cliffs in the guide; easy accessibility, great outward views, a good spread of grades, quality rock and some excellent lines - it isn't surprising that many folks make their first contact with Lofoten rock here. The routes are multi-pitch but generally the stances are good, as is the protection, hence the place is popular for instruction.
Towering above is the peak of Sørfjellet which throws a pillar down towards the sea. The south face of this is known as Maurpillaren (Ants' Pillar)a tall steep slab rising above a cracked base. There are a few scattered routes to the north of the pillar, including the desperately hard crack of Minnerisset (N9-).
Also covered in this section is the single-pitch crag Svenskeveggen, with its mixture of sport and trad routes.
The crags are located just north of where the road heads into a rocky cutting and then crosses Djupfjord. There is roadside parking by the causeway across Djupfjord. Walk back down the road to locate the steep approaches to Maurpillaren and Pianokrakken. Svenskeveggen is situated on the opposite side of the road. For the crags on the northwestern slopes of Sørfjellet, continue on the road. See the individual crags for more detailed approach descriptions.

Routes

50 trad routes (N4+...A3)
3 sport routes (6b+...7b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
-
^
^
^
 
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Sørfjellet
As the Henningsvær road heads round the bend from Rørvika it passes a series of ribs and buttresses
5
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Housewives
A short wall with a trio of routes around to the left of Pianokrakken and the Pedersenryggen. The...
3
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

10 mins

Maurpillaren
(Ants' Pillar) This is the tall slabby pillar rising above a lower face seamed with cracks, up and...
9
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
West Face
A good place for starters as there is a classic easy route plus a few other interesting offerings....
11
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

South Face
A good collection of climbs on the face overlooking the causeway across the end of Djupfjord. It...
12
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

Svenskeveggen
This small steep roadside crag has some bolted routes and trad crack climbs and is good for a short...
13
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

2 mins

sheltered
What do these symbols mean?
  • Latest Comments

    For PIANOKRAKKEN AREA

    Frøken Sverige
    "Added a route up the blunt rib to the left of Frøken Sverige: "Ångermanland" 23/Jun

    Djupfjord sprickan
    "1 Star in the guidebook and the information that it is an off width, means just ..." 14/Jul

    Pizzatyven
    "Pitch grades: (1) VS 4c, (2) VS 4c, (3) E1 5c, (4) HVS 5a, (5) HS 4b (overall E1..." 31/Jul top50

    Lys og skygge
    "I felt the first pitch more delicate. Take care in the crux, not every hold is v..." 29/May top50

    Applecake Arete
    "Nice Climb" 27/Sep top50

    Pianohandler Lunds rute
    "Great route, well worthy of it's top 50 status. Varied climbing. Top of pitch 3 ..." 26/Jul top50

    Ant Line
    "You can also continue the climbing along obvious crack lines to the summit of th..." 10/Jul

    Pizzatyven
    "P3 seems like 6, but perhaps harder for short climbers. P4 is more like 5. The r..." 17/Jul top50

    Search for comments