PRESTEN


The unmistakable conical bulk of Presten (The Priest) dominates the coastal road running out to Henningsvær. Lofoten's most famous cliff is known throughout Norway and its reputation has spread further afield. Its sheer nose of granite rises 400m above the sea in a single majestic sweep.
There is a great collection of routes on the face and almost all are well worth doing. Vestpillaren (The West Pillar), the original route on the face, ascends a system of cracks and corners up the right-hand side of the nose. The Direct version of this is undoubtedly Lofoten's best known and finest rock climb, offering twelve pitches of varied and well-protected climbing up a devious but logical line, on superb rock throughout. The two main features of the face are the huge roof, which is tackled by Reisen and The Codfather, and the big ledge running across the face above the roof. This ledge is known as Storhylla and provides a useful connection point between many of the routes.

Routes

26 trad routes (N6-...A3)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Lille Presten
Perched on the lower left shoulder of Presten is a fine pillar of rock, 130m high and known as the...
2
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

30 mins

Windy
Presten Routes
There is a great collection of routes on the face and almost all are well worth doing. Vestpillaren...
17
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Stålormsrisset
The conspicuous orange wall split by a zig-zag crack is visible on the hillside above the Presten...
2
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

sheltered
Harley Davidson Wall
A fine wall, north-facing and hidden in a steep gully between Gandalf and Presten. The best bit of...
5
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

20 mins

Seepage
sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For PRESTEN

    Himmelen kan vente
    "" 22/Aug top50

    Ypperstepresten
    "It's not Top50, its Top10. One of the greatest climbs I could imagine. The cru..." 14/Jul

    Vestpillaren Direct
    "Just repeated this route (last did it 15 years ago) and found pitch 3 (on the di..." 06/Aug top50

    Himmelen kan vente
    "Excellent, but even in the update is not everything correct. 1) dont follow the..." 23/Jul top50

    Vestpillaren Direct
    "Perfection - wonderful, sustained climbing all the way with only a few short tri..." 13/Jul top50

    Korstoget
    "On the crux pitch, after the 3rd bolt, go "right and up" rather than &..." 26/Jun top50

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