GANDALF


This almost roadside cliff is a great destination for any Lofoten climber, offering several classic routes at amenable grades. The routes are quite long - up to four pitches. The approach only takes a few minutes and there is an easy walk-off so you really don't need to carry a sack up the climbs. Generally the rock is good, though the occasional loose block or flake needs care. The accessibility, grade spread and sunny aspect, mean that the cliff is popular and queues are common - at least you can check the availability of your route before leaving the road!
For something a little more taxing, check out the nearby Silmarillion Wall, with its hard and steep climbs; if you head that way you will be alone.

Routes

30 trad routes (N5-...A3)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
_
-
^
^
 
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Live Aid
On the left-hand side of the face the crag disappears into a gloomy gully that only gets the sun...
5
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

5 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Gandalf Main
The fine broad buttress is home to many excellent routes. On the far left are a few neglected bold...
22
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

sheltered
Silmarillion Wall
The rightward extension of the Gandalf wall forms a fine tall buttress of excellent orange granite....
4
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

sheltered
The Hobbit
To the right of the Silmarillion Wall there are currently four routes; one on the prominent black...
4
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

sheltered
What do these symbols mean?
  • Latest Comments

    For GANDALF

    Lost Gandalf
    "Totally agree with Chris. Very nice rock and never crowded." 08/Jul

    Gandalf
    "The first pitch is quite polished. We went wrong on pitch 2, and ended up on Gun..." 08/Dec top50

    Gamle rev
    "Lofoten's finest E0? Great juggy climbing - lots of fun." 13/Jul top50

    Guns 'n' Roses
    "Dont go to far right in the first pitch, then its really good." 29/May top50

    Gamle rev
    "Peak HVS & Pembroke E1?" 28/Jun top50

    Silmarillion
    "The pegs on pitch 3 are all gone." 29/Jul

    Search for comments