THE COAST


The spectacular section of coast between Henningsvær and Kalle is one with huge potential - the small set of routes described here is just a taster. The approach to the more remote cliffs is a little laborious - 'tapping up' a friendly fisherman might be a useful idea to save the lengthy two-way scramble.
Around the first headland are the hidden bays of Geitvika and of Gullvika. The latter is superbly situated and well hidden at the base of the long gully that falls from the col between Festvågtinden and Budalstinden. Around Geitvika are three areas that have seen a little development, and beyond them the rock goes on and on.
The traverse of the coast between Henningsvær and Kalle is a great outing that only takes a couple of hours. It may be worth investigating on a rest day - expect to spot loads of new routes, and some quite spicy scrambling in places.

Routes

19 trad routes (N5-...N7+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Jomfru pillaren
On rounding the first headland an impressive barrel-shaped buttress appears high up on the left....
2
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Geitvika
'Goat Bay' is set above the right-hand side of the small valley, and almost opposite Jomfru...
4
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

25 mins

Hamlet Wall
Beyond Geitvika is a rocky ridge that runs down the hillside towards the sea. Tucked in beyond this...
5
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

35 mins

sheltered
Time is a Disaster
An almost certainly unrepeated route in the middle of nowhere! It is a long approach, but there is...
1
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

65 mins

sheltered
Migan Pillaren Area
Roughly halfway between Henningsvær and Kalle is an impressive section of cliffs that has been large
7
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

60 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For THE COAST

    Vårkåt
    "" 26/Jul

    Vårkåt
    "Back to Varkat: Steep and Solid. Top10, for sure. The first pitch is pretty e..." 14/Jul

    Pan
    "An excellent route on clean rock with great sea views. The crux pitch (the 2nd) ..." 28/Jul

    Vårkåt
    "Regarding "Den sista Sommeren": We did probably the same last pitch as..." 26/Jul

    Shark Ride
    "Two cracking pitches of great contrast. Good moves on the 1st pitch lead to a sh..." 22/Aug

    Vårkåt
    "Hi. I chose the corner to the right you mention, and that was solid, but dirty, ..." 16/Aug

    Vårkåt
    "Hi Antti I climbed the groove which became sort of a chimney and on to a little..." 15/Aug

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