THE WEST


Lofoten's western island of Moskenes√łya is well known for its amazing scenery with magnificent jagged granite peaks disappearing off into the distance. Despite this the amount of climbing that has been done is still limited and in reality Moskenes√łya is a better destination for mountaineers and hillwalkers than rock climbers. The are a few exceptions; the big roadside slab found on Reinesvaet, (the Reine Slab) and a small collection of major routes scattered around the spectacular peaks of Kjerkfjord. In general the rock isn't quite as good as elsewhere and the stubborn vegetation can be a bit of a nuisance, though doubtless there are many high quality routes waiting to be discovered.
Since the last guidebook, more major outings have been added to these spectacular peaks. The information presented here is the best we have, but be aware most of these routes have never been repeated and all descriptions and topos should be treated with care - when climbing here you are a long way from anywhere!
Although the island chains run southwest/northeast, the old-time fishermen always referred simply to travelling west or east and this tradition has stuck throughout Lofoten.
Many of the crags in this chapter are approached by ferry from Reine. The MS Fjordskyss (30 places) - operates daily from Reine to Kjerkfjorden (also spelt 'Kirkefjord') and Vinstad (also spelt 'Vindstad'). In the peak season (late June to mid August) there are normally three sailings a day, with an extra late evening sailing on Fridays to get the 'weekenders' in. During the peak season the ferries can get very full and a bigger boat may be used. Even so, sometimes a double trip is needed to shift the backlog, which means an extra hour's wait - arriving early is the key. Current (2016) round trip price is 200 NOK.
The other crags covered are approached from roadside parking spots detailed within the crag information pages.

Routes

21 trad routes (N5...N7)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Vinstad
This peak is west of Vinstad and currently is home to one hard route.
1
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

75 mins

Windy
Helvetestinden
(The Hell Peak) This pointed peak north of Bunesfjorden has a huge west-facing slabby wall that...
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

90 mins

Windy
Stamprevtinden
So far there is one route on the huge east face of Stamprevtinden, but there is a lot more rock...
1
Winter
Morning sun
Uphill

45 mins

Windy
Merraflestinden
The conspicuous flat-topped peak dominates the northwest side of the head of Kjerkfjorden and is...
4
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Breiflogtinden
This amazing spire of rock lurks just over the col from Kjerkfjorden and can clearly be seen both...
3
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

45 mins

Windy
Branntuva
Perched above the magnificent remote beach of Horseidstranda is a clean sweep of slabs on the west...
1
Winter
Afternoon sun
Up and down

60 mins

Windy
Marklitinden
Also known as Maslitinden on some maps. The big slabby wall to the north of the settlement of...
4
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

30 mins

Windy
Segltinden
This is the huge 'half-dome' peak on the right as you sail up Kjerkfjord.
2
Winter
Afternoon sun
Uphill

120 mins

Windy
Olstinden
The huge slabs overlooking Kjerkfjorden currently have a solitary route.
1
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

40 mins

Windy
Akkarviktinden
A fine section of rock situated to the north of the village of Hamnøya (which is 3km northeast of Re
1
Winter
Morning sun
Uphill

45 mins

Seepage
Windy
Ølkontinden
This peak lies to the north of the village of Hamnøya. There are a couple of steep long groove and c
2
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

120 mins

Seepage
Windy
Reinesvaet (The Reine Slab)
A huge barrel-shaped buttress right above the old road (now avoided via a new tunnel), 10km north...
4
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Roadside

0 mins

Windy
Ramberg
Just to the south of the lovely little town of Ramberg and its superb beaches, is a fine and steep...
2
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Stortind
Stortind (Big Peak) is the impressive pointed peak which stands to the west of the Flakstadpollen,...
3
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

25 mins

Windy
What do these symbols mean?
  • Latest Comments

    For THE WEST

    The Next Best Thing
    "On the upper part (above the ledge), the grades are not correct : it's more like..." 25/Aug

    Borr i Bekkmørtna
    "An Excelent route worth to climb! From pitch 3 goes straight up, following crack..." 18/Jul

    Permit to Åsgård
    "Rob Lamey roblamey@hotmail.co.uk Top quality route, a must adventure up the ..." 27/Jul

    Sea Breeze
    "I just want to add some usefull information. There is a tunnel under the cliff. ..." 15/Jul

    Recht Rinne
    "This route - or a variation of it - was climbed by Svein Smelvær and Bjørn Hanch" 31/Jul

    Norwegian Sheep Ranch
    "Pitch 1 is a somewhat runout (7- ish) and longer than 60 m. We had to simul-clim..." 29/Jul

    Sørvest pillaren
    "Did this in early August 08 - this is now three months later so the details are ..." 11/Nov

    Sea Breeze
    "I agree with the comments above. The two final pitches were bold and quite hard..." 13/Oct

    Sea Breeze
    "Would agree with comment No2. Overall feeling is fluttery alright, but great fri..." 29/Jul

    Sea Breeze
    "A few things to say. It is pretty bold, but apart from pitch 7 not desperatly so..." 01/May

    Sea Breeze
    "A pleasant route. The old bolts are just single 8mm. Take some tat and spare n..." 12/Mar

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