Buoux (pronounced "bee-you-ks") is the pocket-pulling capital - a mixture of limestone and sandstone, the rock has a dazzling array of pockets, some tiny, some huge - in Buoux even the pockets have pockets in them! In other words it helps to like pockets if you climb here. It isn't all pockets though since the red and brown rock gives even more variety, especially on the middle section of the cliff.For a while, the word 'Buoux' was synonymous the golden age of sport climbing, and an icon of sport climbing itself. Sadly though, it became a victim of its own success when sections of the cliff were banned due to cheapskate climbers dossing and polluting the woods around the crag. These access difficulties have now been resolved but it goes without saying that climbers still need to show respect and behave sensibly.
Routes
428 sport routes (4c...8c) 4 sport routes (6a...7a+) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other |
La Dérive to Autoroute Three sectors on the far left end of the crag. La Dérive is a quiet sector with some great routes fo |
43 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 20 mins |
|
La No to GVB La No and Béda form a pair of short walls at the left end of the main crag. The lower wall is an inf |
76 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 15 mins |
|
PGF to Les Diamants The central section of the crag has a series of sectors split by a tree-filled ledge at... |
83 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 15 mins |
|
Fakir to La Plage The tallest section of Buoux has some great popular sectors on a variety of excellent rock... |
87 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 15 mins |
|
Pilier des Fourmis The grandest secteur on Buoux with a wealth of brilliant routes a few of which continue all the way... |
26 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 15 mins |
|
Les Devers, TCF and Rêve No description as yet. |
62 | Sport |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Uphill 15 mins |
|
Styx Wall A justifiably popular wall, with line after line of brilliant climbing, just beware of the slabby... |
30 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 15 mins |
|
Bout du Monde Probably the world's best-known hard-climbing sector, Bout du Monde has long been a forcing ground.... |
27 | Sport |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 15 mins |
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