The south-facing line of low limestone crags that stretch out into the Bristol Channel offer up some intriguing and esoteric climbs. Brean Down started its climbing life as an out-of-the-way trad venue but it has now become popular as a fine sport climbing location, tucked away on its own above a busy beach that looks out over extensive tidal flats. It is a suntrap that suffers from little seepage, and offers the chance of warm conditions even in the middle of winter.
The sport climbs at Boulder Cove are very popular and are always chalked-up, whilst the trad climbs are far more serious undertakings and see little traffic and, as a result, have become slightly vegetated. The traditional lines require the use of stake-belays in the steep sandy slope above the crag.
The limestone is not as reliable as that found elsewhere locally, and great care is needed with the placing of gear, and use of the sometimes-fragile holds. Having said this, the routes in this book are on the best rock at Brean Down.


3 trad routes (VS...E5)
19 sport routes (5c...8a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Boulder Cove
An excellent, beautifully located wall of compact limestone with a number of worthwhile sport...
Sun and shade

5 mins

Great Corner and Ocean Wall
Midway along the crag is the striking line of Great Corner whilst the Ocean Wall is directly above...
Sun and shade

4 mins

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  • Latest Comments


    Tide Rising
    "First F7b+, having worked the moves on a previous trip!! Wonderful route." 23/Sep

    Pearl Harbour
    "Better of the two 7a's and fluffable if you are a muppet after the initial jug p..." 21/Feb

    Tide Rising
    "Locals told me a hold came off and Ian Vickers failed to onsight it? General con..." 31/Jan

    Milky Bar Kid
    "This is a quality outing. The moves from prisoner to the break of bullworker ar..." 11/Jan

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