LES GOUDES


Les Goudes is the most westerly of the Calanques, an attractive spot but it is best avoided on sunny weekends when half of Marseilles likes to visit the place. There is an excellent variety of climbing here, short and easy, long and hard and all stations in between. Sunny or shady, single pitch or multi-pitch, slabby or overhanging - it has the lot. Only a smallish selection of the climbing available is described, for a more detailed overview consult the local guidebook.
Warning - Break-ins of foreign registered cars reached epidemic proportions here a few years ago. The situation has improved but care is still required. To avoid the hassle, leave nothing in the car. Parking at Les Goudes and on the University campus at Luminy are by far the safest options. For Calanque d'en Vau, parking is at Cassis (busy) or at Col du Mistral (in the middle of nowhere, but normally safe).

Routes

107 sport routes (3...9a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Lapinodrome
A small and relatively insignificant cliff but with easy access and afternoon shade. Good for short...
8
Sport
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

sheltered
Alpinodrome
A similar small sheltered crag though with a harder set of climbs to go at. Again it offers...
10
Sport
Morning sun
Level

8 mins

sheltered
Escalier des Géants
By far the best of the three small cliffs hereabouts with a good set of routes in a sunny sheltered...
37
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
La Grotte de l'Ermite
An impressive pillar forming a long outside wall with some good multi-pitch routes and a steep cave...
26
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
La Paroi Jaune
A superb section of wall in a sunny setting, with a great set of routes in the black zone. Most of...
16
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Le Pin
The tall white face has a great selection of multi-pitch sport routes, a selection of which is...
10
Sport
No sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
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