CALANQUE D'EN VAU


The most classic of all the Calanques, a Mediterranean paradise that has suffered because of its beauty, it is best avoided on sunny summer weekends when the small beach can end up jammed with 'seekers of solitude'. The authorities have made access to the Calanque more difficult as the years have gone by, moving the nearest parking further away, though boat access from Cassis remains the easiest way in. Boats are not allowed to approach the beach, a commando assault will be required.
The climbing here is excellent, varied and in a wonderful situation, though inevitably the most popular climbs have become polished in the 100 plus years climbers have been visiting the place. Many of the routes are only partly bolted, a light trad rack will be needed for these.

Routes

45 sport routes (4a...7b)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
-
^
^
-
 
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Le Pouce
One of the first significant pieces of rock passed on the approach is a fine, grey wall high on the...
6
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

35 mins

sheltered
La Sirène
Not to be mistaken with the Petite or the Grande Aiguilles, La Sirène is a tall, tapering buttress o
8
Sport
No sun
Downhill

35 mins

sheltered
La Petite Aiguille and La Saphir
Standing close to the beach is the 35m-high Petite Aiguille and running up behind it is the soaring...
12
Sport
No sun
Downhill

40 mins

Dalle de la Conversation
A sunny wall rising above ledges with shady pines and a fine set of fingery face-climbs.
4
Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill

45 mins

Doigt de Dieu
The Finger of God is the prominent spire out on the left-hand side of the fjord. It is reached by a...
4
Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill

45 mins

Face du Grand Rappel
The most impressive piece of rock at Calanque d'en Vau by a mile is the long shadowy wall that...
11
Sport
Early morning sun
Downhill

40 mins

sheltered
What do these symbols mean?