CHâTEAUVERT


A lovely set of buttresses tucked away in a sheltered, wooded valley with a tranquil river running through it and some great climbing, only minutes from the road. If that sounds like a French Stoney Middleton or Avon Gorge - it isn't!
The rock is a coarse textured and heavily pocketed limestone, and climbing on it is a real pleasure though hands can suffer from a prolonged visit here. The routes are well bolted almost without exception, and there is a huge range of climbs to choose from. Many of the pitches are very long, bring plenty of quickdraws and take note of the length of the route versus the length of your rope!

Routes

178 sport routes (3...8b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Grand Face
The show-piece of the crag, the Grand Face has few amenable offerings. The best of the routes are...
46
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Roadside

0 mins

sheltered
Le Muret to Westpoint
With some fine red walls on the left (Le Muret) and more typical Châteauvert pocketed grey limestone
43
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

2 mins

sheltered
Alex
A fine tower plastered with big holds. A sunny aspect and good sunbathing ledges add to the...
11
Sport
No sun
Uphill

3 mins

sheltered
Technogène
A fine, jutting tower of rock with a nice set of orange-grade routes on superb rock. Not...
19
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

3 mins

sheltered
Le Gaga
Another fine jutting tower of grey rock with a set of popular orange-grade routes. Down and right,...
13
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

2 mins

sheltered
Roadside Buttresses
Running east from the main buttresses are plenty of lesser rocks, plus a few fine walls and some...
23
Sport
Sun and shade
Roadside

0 mins

Eastern Buttresses
The last sections of the cliff to be described are the near-roadside faces beyond the bend at the...
23
Sport
Sun and shade
Roadside

0 mins

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