VERDON GORGE


The Verdon Gorge is one of Europe's prime climbing destinations; huge cliffs, magnificent rock, easy access, dramatic situations and an amiable climate for a good part of the year. The majority of the routes are reasonably well bolted, though a significant number of climbs, including several of the major classics, require the carrying of a light rack. Double ropes are sensible on any of the longer routes; whether or not to carry a rucksack, approach shoes, wind/waterproof, water depends on weather conditions and team ability. Benightments are not that uncommon on the longer routes, the balance between speed and safety is a tricky one - as ever!
If approaching routes from above, it makes sense to ensure you are in the right place before committing to the abseils. Almost all routes have their names painted at the top (on plaques or on the rock), but often these are faded or tricky to find, sometimes a bit of detective work is required to ensure you have the correct starting point. It is worth pointing out that many of the grades feel pretty stiff, though a large element of this is the awe-inspiring setting of many of the climbs. Having a grade or two in hand may be a good idea until you get the feel of the place.

Routes

1 trad route (VF3B)
169 sport routes (5c...8b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Falaise de l'Imbut
A huge intimidating cliff that thrusts forward as a massive jutting bastion, dropping straight to...
6
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Downhill

5 mins

Abseil
Windy
Falaise du Belvédère des Malines
An extensive cliff in a sunny position with a selection of easier climbs, a few harder lines and...
6
Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill

40 mins

Windy
Falaise du Grand Eycharme
A tall and imposing cliff that gets morning sun and afternoon shade. It only has a small set of...
3
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

10 mins

Abseil
Windy
La Miroir du Fou
A roadside crag that might be a major venue in a more rock-starved part of the world, here it...
14
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Roadside

0 mins

Windy
Frimes et Chatiments
At this point the cliffs are only about 120m high to the Jardin des Suisses, offering the chance of...
17
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Abseil
Windy
Heure Zéro and Golem
Another wide section of cliff with a huge array of routes - there are over 70 documented climbs on...
8
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

5 mins

Abseil
Windy
La Fête des Nerfs
A west-facing wall with a lot of routes. A couple of classics are covered here - consult the local...
2
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

5 mins

Abseil
Windy
Rivière d'Argent
A great selection of longer multi-pitch classics around half a dozen pitches long and a set of...
28
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

5 mins

Abseil
Windy
Le Belvédère de la Carelle
Probably the most popular section of the whole cliff for the simple reason it is so accessible. The...
44
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

5 mins

Abseil
Windy
Les Dalles Grises
To the right of the magnificent rock of Pichenibule is a broad sweep of slabs named after its most...
20
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

5 mins

Abseil
Windy
La Demande
A small section of great routes that go the whole way - the full height from the bottom to top of...
6
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

sheltered
Luna Bong Area
Powerful lines, great rock, easy access (if you like hairy abseils) and of course some classic...
10
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

5 mins

Abseil
Windy
Le Paroi du Duc
The huge imposing cliff that grabs your attention from Couloir Sampson and the walk into the main...
6
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

20 mins

Windy
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