Set on the very tip of the Great Orme, Castell y Gwynt is one of the area's best kept secrets. The smooth, sweeping wall capped by a huge overhang never fails to impress, and the dramatic position above a small grass ledge high above the sea heightens the sense of awe. Bird restrictions, high winds, seepage, lack of sun and some very intimidating routes have not done much for the crag's popularity. It is safe to say that, in a more friendly and accessible location, Castell y Gwynt would rank amongst the most-visited limestone crags in Britain, however that would detract from some of its most appealing aspects: the exposure, the solitude and the sense of being completely 'out there' when only a few moves off the ground! The selection of routes here includes the national classic New Dimensions plus a few others including the set that are usually climbed as sport routes. Many of the bolts have been replaced with solid resin staples but a small rack is still recommended when climbing any of the routes here.


15 trad routes (E2...E6)
4 sport routes (7b...8a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Castell y Gwynt Routes
No description as yet.
No sun

10 mins

Restricted Access
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