ORGON


Mention Orgon to climbers who are reasonably familiar with French climbing and most will assume you are referring to Orgon Canal - a super-steep collection of routes, some of which were once amongst the hardest in the world. This is to mis-judge Orgon almost entirely, as the great majority of the climbing here consists of low- to mid-grade routes on largely slabby or vertical rock. There are, of course, steeper sections, like the Canal, but really there is something for everyone from grade 3 to grade 9. The facts that there is a campsite right in the middle of the place, and that it is so easy to get to, even without a car, make it surprising that it is not more popular than it is. The sectors at Orgon as so incredibly varied that it's not possible to give a general indication of conditions - in all likelihood there will be a crag facing the right way with some routes that you'll want to try whatever the time of year.

Routes

334 sport routes (3c...Proj)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Petit Cirque
A small but pleasant amphitheatre of rock. Take care at the base as a slip could lead to a rapid...
27
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

15 mins

Pointe Sikamole
A great wall with technical routes up a shield of excellent rock. Approach - From the entrance to...
18
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

14 mins

Pointe de la Découverte
A collection of short routes in a fine position. Approach - From the entrance to the campsite,...
12
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Babylone
A few more harder climbs than the neighbouring Papy sector. Approach - Follow the main track up...
11
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

Papy
Some nice gentle slabs. Approach - Follow the main track up from the campsite, a path leads off to...
13
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

6 mins

Acteur's Studio
A short crag, but the routes can pack a lot in. Approach - Walk along the base from Papy. You can...
23
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Sentinel and Pilier Nord
The Sentinel is an impressive free-standing rock. Approach - Walk along the campsite's perimeter...
15
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Le Grand Cirque
A superb crag, one of the best at Orgon with soaring lines up immaculate rock. Approach - Walk...
20
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Secteur du Haut
Another superb piece of rock with plenty to go at. Approach - Walk along the campsite's perimeter...
12
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

C'est pas du Pan
An isolated sector consisting of a superb steep slab, it is well worth the effort of the approach...
6
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Secteur Oublié
The furthest crag at Orgon has a rather specialised offering - just three hard routes. Follow the...
2
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

La Grotte
The furthest crag at Orgon has a rather specialised offering - just three hard routes. Follow the...
3
Sport
Morning sun
Level

20 mins

Pilier Sud
Pilier Sud has a couple of two-pitch routes in fine positions.
2
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Les Grottes
Les Grottes has a mix of excellent face-climbs and some popular and steep jug-hauls.
14
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Brèche Sud
A fine collection of routes, invariably on superb rock; a good place to start.
43
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Mur Notre-Dame
The first crag you reach when approaching from above. The routes on the right-hand side are all...
22
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

2 mins

Dalle du Camping
Technical routes up some very good rock, unfortunately the approach is a bit of a pain - it is...
13
Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill

15 mins

La Quatrième Dimension
No description as yet.
4
Sport
Early morning sun
Roadside

0 mins

Canalissime
Though chipped, glued and polished, the routes at the left end of the Canal sector take on an...
23
Sport
Morning sun
Roadside

0 mins

Bronx
For a while, this sector held some of the hardest routes in the world, and made Orgon a...
20
Sport
Early morning sun
Roadside

0 mins

Tchao
The left-hand side carries on the theme of the main crag but thing get quickly more friendly as you...
31
Sport
Sun and shade
Roadside

0 mins

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