VIVIAN QUARRY


Back in 1981, Stevie Haston borrowed a knife from Pete's Eats cafe and went on to clean the most famous climb on slate. Comes the Dervish set the ball rolling on a wave of development that is still going on today. It was this route that inspired the subsequent 'slatehead generation' to scour the quarries in search of new climbs.
Being so close to Llanberis and full of great climbs has made Vivian Quarry a popular venue. Scattered around the quarry are many great slate climbs of all types and styles. There is the slab of Comes the Dervish with its famous trad classics, the finger-searing difficulties of the sport routes on the Nostromo Wall, the run-out bolted routes on the Conscience Slab and, just in case that wasn't enough, you have the bold deep water solos of the Bathtime wall on The Prow. On almost every level there is at least one route worthy of attention and for most climbers there will be many visits' worth.

Routes

123 trad routes (VS...XS)
21 sport routes (6a...6a+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Muscle Beach
A short area on the Pool Level with a few mid-grade trad routes which are out of the sun. It is...
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
The Prow
There are some hard and bold routes on the promontory in the pool, some of which are deep water...
15
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

0 mins

Abseil
sheltered
Restricted Access
Psychotherapy Area
This east-facing wall doesn't see much attention and some of the routes are a bit loose and...
7
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Wendy Doll Ledge
This is the part-ledge above Psychotherapy. It is named after the long route Wendy Doll (p.§§§) whic
3
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Bobby's Groove Area
This area is at the far end of the pool and has suffered a major rockfall - it has much unstable...
6
Sport
Morning sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Mental Lentils Area
A pleasant area above the pool with popular routes, none more so than Mental Lentils and The...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
The Dwarf Level
The next level up from the Pool level consists of clean slabs and the striking X cracks of Sup 1...
13
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Love Minus Zero
The west side of the quarry on the Dervish Level has a decent wall with a couple of good bold...
6
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Age Concern
Left of the Dervish slab is a poor section of rock with few routes of interest.
5
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Nostromo Wall
A great area with some demanding routes that give an amazing view back down to Llanberis. Sadly the...
8
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Comes the Dervish
A great area with many classic routes, in a commanding position above the rest of the quarry and...
13
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Conscience Slab
A great area with several amazing routes, in a commanding position above the rest of the quarry....
13
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
The Hot Knives Level
The Hot Knives Level is a bit of a backwater high in the quarry above the Dervish Level, but there...
11
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Truffle Hunter Area
The west side of the Ritter Sport Level only really has one route of interest plus a few loose trad...
4
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Ritter Sport Area
This excellent area is hidden away high in the quarry and consequently sees less traffic than it...
11
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Vivian Link-ups
A couple of link-ups have been climbed, though after several rockfalls only one of them is a...
2
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Valkyries Level
A minor area up high in the quarry has two routes of interest for the enthusiast.
4
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

0 mins

Top Level
Up in the gods, the highest level has little of interest especially since the only sport route has...
4
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

0 mins

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