CASTLE NAZE


An excellent though not very extensive outcrop which can be considered as Wingather's bigger brother, with taller, steeper routes and more climbs in the orange zone. Many of the routes follow steep cracks and grooves and on most the protection is excellent.
Castle Naze has seen the attention of climbers for a century or so now. It is not as popular as nearby Windgather, the lack of really easy routes and the fact that fixing belays above the cliff is awkward tends to reduce the number of teams interested in top-roping. Also the style of climbing, often involving steep jamming, requires a bit of technique and gritstone savvy. If you have learnt the basics indoors or at Windgather, a session or two here should hone your technique before moving on to even bigger things.
The crag is situated high above the village of Coombs, to the south of Chapel-en-le-Frith. There is parking for 3 cars in a muddy layby on the minor road that runs between Dove Holes and Combs. Walk up the road for 30m and then follow the steep track that slants rightwards up the cliff passing a steep wooden fence (4b?) to the left-hand end of the cliff.

Routes

79 trad routes (M...E4)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Pinnacle Area
The left-hand side of the cliff has a good set of lower-grade climbs on quality rock. There is the...
21
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

Pilgrim's Progress
This fine series of cracks and grooves is an excellent place for honing your jamming skills. Some...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

Scoop Face
The central part of the cliff has its best known feature climbed by its most famous route; Scoop...
13
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

The Crack and Central Tower
The tallest buttress on the cliff is home to some of the very best outings here. Routes such as The...
17
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For CASTLE NAZE

    Syringe Benefit
    "Nice climbing, and looked much cleaner than Morocc'n Roll (which had weeds growi..." 20/May

    Scoop Face Direct
    "Prob E1 5C due to polish low down. Crux rockover has good holds - less so for ha..." 16/Sep

    Pod Crack
    "Definitely E2 6a" 03/Jul

    Ledgeway
    "Safe as houses and tough 5b" 09/May

    Morocc'n Roll
    "HVS 5b" 09/May

    Muscle Crack
    "Listed as Severe in the 2009 edition of Western Grit. The top was definately a ..." 04/May

    Nozag
    "Probably the best route at the crag, but would only get one star elsewhere. Low..." 28/Aug

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