HEN CLOUD


The superb castellated buttresses of Hen Cloud offer some of grit's finest crack climbs, and these include routes which are amongst the longest anywhere on grit. There are even some genuine multi-pitch climbs to savour. Perched above a steep bank, the positions are superb as is the outlook but, despite all these positives, the crag is rarely crowded. The climbs cover the grade spectrum and like the nearby crag of the Roaches, there is an excellent selection of lower grade climbs.
Basically the cliff is split in two by a diagonal grassy ramp which provides an easy descent. To the left of this are the longest routes on the cliff and, to the right, a fine wall gradually increasing in height from left to right, which swings round to face east. Both facets are split by a fine set of cracks and grooves. Over on the far left are some shorter walls and a trio of fine towers.

Routes

103 trad routes (M...E7)
2 boulder problems (f5+...f6A+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Far Left
The left-hand side of the cliff is dominated by three tall towers. To the right are steep walls...
21
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

10 mins

Black Wall
The short wall below the ledge that runs across the face has some interesting crack climbs, though...
13
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

10 mins

Delstree
Now you are talking - three soaring grooves in the orange spot zone make this section of the cliff...
13
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

10 mins

Central Climb
The tallest part of the cliff, home to some great multi-pitch routes and the site of the only...
20
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

10 mins

Hen Cloud Eliminate
The long tapering wall that forms the right-hand side of Hen Cloud has many superb routes across a...
22
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

10 mins

Great Chimney
The last section of wall, just around the corner from the tall Batchelor's Area, has the classics...
13
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

What do these symbols mean?
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For HEN CLOUD

    Chicken
    "Absolute classic! Not that bold, but I thought 5b all the way, and so hard for ..." 14/Sep

    Solid Geometry
    "Lovely sequency climbing up the 'petrified vine'. Protection is just about adequ..." 23/Sep

    Delstree
    "I was having a bad day. I got onto the main crack and really struggled to place ..." 06/Sep top50

    Delstree
    "That's strange - I did all 3 in the same day as well and thought that delstree w..." 30/Jul top50

    Problem 1
    "An excellent, scary problem up the right hand vein at V2. I reckon the line jus..." 24/Apr

    The Arete
    "My first ever trad climb :) Its quite exposed so was thrilling for a 1st traditi..." 01/Aug

    Bachelor's Left-hand
    "Good but a bit disjointed. Thought HCE was the better route" 05/Jul top50

    Thompson's Buttress Route 2
    "this is a Good route offering little protection for the first few meters" 22/Apr

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