The south side of Piz Ciavazes is one of the most impressive and accessible faces in the Dolomites. Though the full length of the face can be climbed, most routes end at the mid-height Chamois Terrace (Gamsband) because of poor quality rock on the upper half. This gives rise to a number of excellent moderate length multi-pitch routes. The Big Micheluzzi, Little Micheluzzi and Schubert/Route of Friendship are all Dolomite classics, though many other less famous routes on the face are just as good. The initial few pitches of the routes do have a slightly vegetated feel but this improves with height. There is also some single pitch sport available though in truth it doesn't compare with the quality of the longer routes here, or with the sport routes found at the nearby Città di Sassi (page 210). The aspect of the crag means that the face dries quickly with the exception of the Buhl Direct. This also means the face is best avoided on the hottest days of the year in midsummer.


12 trad routes (7a...VII)
42 sport routes (4a...8a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
South Face
No description as yet.
Lots of sun!

15 mins

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