TRIDENTINA CRAG


The lower walls of Tridentina are home to some excellent sport climbing, mostly in the higher grades, on three immaculate steep walls. Standing underneath the walls you appreciate how steep they are and good stamina is a must here, even on the lower grade routes. For anyone operating around and above 6c+/7a these walls are a joy and not to be missed. The routes are varied, the positions fantastic and the walk-in exceptionally short. Perhaps Tridentina's most appealing aspect is the relative lack of any polish, even on the easier routes. By contrast to the nearby slabs of Frea, the rock here is wonderfully rough and the pockets sharp enough to warrant finger tape. Because of the steep pocketed nature of the rock many of the holds can be hidden and the moves prove to be blind during an onsight attempt. The crag is steep enough to climb on during the rain, but it does suffer from seepage for some time after rain. The northerly aspect means the routes can take a while to dry out during early and late season. It also makes the venue perfect for a hot summer's day when the south faces are too hot. Conversely the routes can be extremely cold at other times of year and can even hold snow quite late into the season, particularly Eiszeit. There are three sectors - Tridentina Bassa (lower), Tridentina Alta (upper) and Eiszeit. Bassa is the large main wall and contains many routes. Alta is located further up the hill and is identified by a characteristic large spherical niche at mid height. Eiszeit is one of the best hard crags in the whole area. The majority of the climbs have their name graffitied at the base making navigating the complex array of bolts much easier. The multi-pitch routes have intermediate fixed belay stations for lowering off. An 80m rope is recommended and essential for many of the routes. Bassa and Alta - Looking downhill towards Colfosco and Corvara, head to the bottom right-hand side of the car park. Take the upper right of the two paths following signs for the 'Pisciad├╣ via ferrata/klettersteig'. Continue following the path through scrub for 5 minutes until you reach the base of Tridentina Bassa. Eiszeit - Looking up the pass head to the top left (southwest) corner of the car park. Follow a small climbers' track that leads up the bank towards the cliff faces. The track goes directly out of the car park, don't follow path 651 uphill. After 20m or so you will notice red dots painted on the rock leading uphill to the west. Follow these for 10 minutes to the base of the crag.

Routes

78 sport routes (5c...?)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Tridentina Bassa
Steep climbing on good but hidden holds predominates here, requiring good stamina. Take care as...
36
Sport
No sun
Uphill

10 mins

Seepage
Tridentina Alta
This newly developed sector features some fantastic single pitch lines, in particular Magic line...
17
Sport
No sun
Uphill

10 mins

Seepage
Eiszeit
Superb technical climbing on small holds and pockets predominates here. The routes are generally...
26
Sport
No sun
Uphill

15 mins

Seepage
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