Halfway down the Gardena Pass, near the town of Colfosco, the impressive Val Mesdi carves the Sella Group in two. On the south side of the steep-sided valley lies Oscura della Luna, 'the Dark Side of the Moon'. This face has six excellent modern bolted routes, all of which go at fairly amenable grades - quite a rarity for multi-pitch sport in the Dolomites. The stances are fully equipped and the routes themselves well bolted. There can be some longer run-outs on the easier pitches and a small trad rack might be beneficial for less confident parties. Because of its north-facing aspect and, as its name would suggest, the crag receives virtually no sun. This, combined with percolating water from the Val Mesdi above, means seepage can be a real problem and the crag is very slow to dry. As such climbing here is only advisable after sustained periods of dry weather. To get to the first three climbs, follow the path to the left passing the large cleft that splits the face. Using the white upper wall as a point of reference, locate a grassy terrace that slopes up rightwards towards a prominent overhang. Indian Summer starts on the left-hand side of this terrace, Legoland from the centre and Orwell from the right. All three climbs are marked with a small metal plaque. Take care on the grassy terrace/ledge if the ground is wet.


6 sport routes (6a+...6b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Oscura della Luna Routes
No description as yet.
No sun

30 mins

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