The south face of Sasso delle Nove, perched above the lunar landscape of the Fanis plateau, is without doubt the most surreal crag in the Dolomites. The large face, which is almost completely devoid of features, is often referred to as the 'Messner Slabs' after Reinhold's classic route that takes the middle of the face direct. The exceptionally compact rock gives perfect friction climbing but does make gear placements few and far between - expect some big runouts on all the climbs here. The approach to the face is rather long and tiring with many parties choosing to bivvy under the face or at the nearby Rifugio (√úcia) Lavarella. Those that do make the effort to get to this unique crag will be rewarded with almost certain solitude. San Leonardo/Badia Abtei is located in the Alta Badia just north of La Villa. From Corvara, take the SP244 north for 7km passing through La Villa until you enter Badia Abtei. Then follow signing across the river to 'San Leonardo' and the 'Santa Croce' chairlift. There is a large car park behind the lift station. Take the two stage Santa Croce/La Crusc chairlift (which runs from late June to late September) to the top station. Then follow signs up to the chapel and Rifugio La Crusc which you reach in 5 minutes. From here you get a superb view of the impressive west face of Sas dla Crusc. Turn onto path 7, which starts directly behind the rifugio, first heading east before turning south and contouring under the scree ledges of Sas dla Crusc. The path becomes increasingly steep with several sections of easy scrambling protected by cable. Follow this for just under 2 hours until you reach the lunar plateau. Continue following path 7 which now heads east across the bowl. Shortly after the prominent face of Sasso delle Nove comes into view to the north. There is no official path to the face so pick the best route available through the scree. Rifugio Pederu is situated at the head of the beautiful Val Mareo. From the popular ski town of San Vigilio, follow signs down a small road towards 'Rifugio Pederu'. Park outside the rifugio at the end of the road. From here, take the Jeep taxi service (it is worth checking with the rifugio for exact times) to Rifugio (√úcia) Lavarella. If you wish to proceed on foot to the rifugio it takes about two hours following path 7 up the vehicle track. From Rifugio Lavarella, follow path 7 first north and then east for just under an hour until the face comes into view on your right (north). There is no official path to the face so pick the best route available through the scree.


4 trad routes (IV...V)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Sasso delle Nove - South Face
No description as yet.
Lots of sun!

130 mins

What do these symbols mean?