SASS DE STRIA/HEXENSTEIN


Sass de Stria is an iconic peak located at the junction of the Falzarego and Valparola Passes, its dominating stand-alone position compensating for its relatively low altitude. Its ancient history centres on the legend of a witch who lived in the mountain, giving it its name meaning 'witches rock'. In more recent times the peak played a key role in the grim realities of the First World War. In 1915 the Tre Sassi Fort located 1.5km further down the Valparola Pass was heavily shelled by the Italian artillery, causing the Austrian troops to relocate to the strategic point of Sass de Stria to defend the nearby Val Badia. Many of the trenches around the mountain have been restored and are worth taking the time to explore. In terms of climbing potential, Sass de Stria is an excellent starting point as an introduction to both Dolomite sport and trad. The classic South Arete is a deservedly popular climb for beginners and experienced climbers alike, and its east face provides a well-equipped low grade sport crag. The boulderfield at the base of the east face, and stretching northeast towards the Tre Sassi Fort, will keep boulderers entertained with an excellent array of problems on steep pocketed rock ranging from Font 5 to Font 8.

Routes

1 trad route (IV+)
29 sport routes (4a...7b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Southeast Face
The classic South Arete is the perfect introduction to multi-pitch trad in the Dolomites, whilst...
2
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

20 mins

East Face
Possibly the most amenable (and therefore busiest) crag in the Dolomites, Sass de Stria's east face...
28
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

5 mins

Seepage
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