TOFANA DI ROZES


Tofana di Rozes is one of the most striking mountains in the Dolomites. Although rare to see it without a halo of cloud on the summit, it dominates the landscape and can be seen from miles around. It is actually the smallest of the three mountains which form the Tofana group and, at 3225m, it stands just a few metres shorter than the neighbouring Tofana di Mezzo and Tofana di Dentro, yet its dominating form has captivated the hearts and minds of climbers for over a hundred years. Like much of the area around the Falzarego Pass, the Tofana group did not remain unscathed during the First World War, and there are numerous war tunnels around the mountain's base. The Castelletto area suffered another bout of mine warfare; from here the Austrian troops were able to control much of the Val Travenanzes and thus much of the movement through the area. Over a period of six months, the Italian military dug a 500m long tunnel and laid a charge of dynamite, blowing away the summit of the Castelletto tower. Forty years later, the tunnel was used to equip the first section of via ferrata Giovanni Lipella. As well as the via ferrata, Tofana di Rozes has some excellent climbs, generally in the upper grades. These are located on the south face on a series of large pillars. More recently some high quality modern semi-bolted routes have been opened, all of which are technically challenging and on excellent rock. They are a credit to their creators. The length and difficulty of all the routes on this mountain, combined with the high altitude of Tofana di Rozes itself, means that none of them should be taken lightly, and experience in moving quickly at a high level is essential to avoid a night-time epic. Route finding is generally not too difficult although, like many of the classics, there are numerous variations to the routes which can lead to confusion.

Routes

3 trad routes (V+...VII+)
3 sport routes (6c...7b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Pilastro di Rozes
No description as yet.
3
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

30 mins

Primo Spigolo
No description as yet.
3
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

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