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Ropes
The most crucial item of gear is your rope.
At the very least you need a 60m rope but, if
you're buying a new rope for a trip, we strongly
recommend getting a 70m rope or longer. Single
ropes are now available in thicknesses previously
associated with half-ropes. Thin ropes are easier
to climb with and lighter, which is good for the hike
to the crag and your luggage allowance on the
plane. Thicker ropes last longer and are better for
working projects. For multi-pitch routes requiring an
abseil descent, you may find that using a pair of
half-ropes is preferable or a triple-rated rope which
can be used both single and double.
Belay Device -
Make sure your belay device is
suitable for your rope: too grabbing and you'll be
cursing it each time you pay out rope, too slick
and you may struggle to hold your partner. A belay
device that you are happy to abseil on is also a
good idea if you are considering longer routes.
Route Lengths and Lowering Off
The photo-topos have approximate heights, indi-
cated next to some lower-offs.
These are guideline
heights only
. It is important to remember that crag
bases often slope, and people stand in different
places when belaying. Also, manufacturer figures
for rope lengths vary and some ropes have had
worn sections chopped off the ends in the past.
Do you really know exactly how long your rope is?
The golden rule is always tie a knot in the end
of the rope to prevent dropping a climber when
lowering off.
Other Gear
Trad Gear -
Amongst the sporty stuff are some
routes with less fixed gear, though often with
decent belays, and some kind of gear near the
hard moves. The symbol
n
is used to identify
these, usually along with a UK trad grade (with a
corresponding grade colour-code - see next page).
Here are some suggested racks of gear for your
trip in addition to your rope:
Sport routes only -
12 to 14 quickdraws and a
helmet.
Sport routes and a few longer mixed routes -
12 to 14 quickdraws, a set of wires, a couple
of medium cams, a helmet and 3 or 4 slings.
Competent climbers will be able to climb many of
these routes with just a rack of quickdraws and a
single 60m rope although this is not advised if you
are inexperienced in long run-outs and descending
by short abseils between insubstantial anchors.
Multi-pitch trad routes with abseil descents -
12
quickdraws, twin 50m ropes, a full normal trad rack
including wires, cams and a helmet.
Beyond these essentials, you may find tape useful
for bandaging your fingers if the prickly rock starts
to take its toll. For multi-pitch routes, a small sack
with a water bladder, a long-sleeve shirt and a sun
hat are good ideas. A good pair of approach shoes
is also worth packing, as some of the crags are a
bit of a walk from the parking spots.
Alan James fully geared up for the long mixed route
Espolón
Central
(HS/4+) -
page 205
- on Puig Campana. Photo: Mick Ryan
Murcia
Alicante Benidorm Calp
Xaló
Gandía
32
Costa Blanca Climbing
Gear