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It all began in late 1987, Sherri suggested a Christmas trip to Spain and Denia on the Costa
Blanca was the chosen venue. It was a revelation; in a busy week we climbed at Toix, Gandía,
Puig Campana and the Peñón amongst others. The great weather, varied cliffs and lack of other
climbers was an intoxicating mix, ensuring we were back sooner rather than later and we have
been making regular trips for the last 25 years.
Nowadays, the Costa Blanca is rightly regarded as one of the best destinations anywhere for
winter sun climbing, with the benign climate and massive amount of rock available attracting
visitors from all over the world. The thrill of a two hour transition from the grey and grizzly winter
of northern Europe to warmth and bright Spanish sunshine still takes some beating and many
climbers now make a regular mid-winter exodus to head south for a much needed tonic.
A decent climate is only part of the attraction; the variety, quality and extent of the climbing is
the real draw. Cliffs available here vary from tiny roadside buttresses, to long multi-pitch full-day
trad routes; from dramatic sea cliffs to super-steep sport climbing caves for the hardcore. There
is simply something here for everyone, and this is especially true for the climber operating in the
low-to-mid grades.
The amount of climbing available continues to expand which partly explains the size of this new
guide. Regular visitors though will know that, in reality, we have only just begun to scratch the
surface and the many huge undeveloped walls providing potential for years to come. Now how will
we fit that into a single book?
Chris Craggs and Alan James, January 2013
Murcia
Alicante Benidorm Calp
Xaló
Gandía
4
Costa Blanca
Introduction