UKC

Fontainebleau climb identification

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 Joeb 30 Apr 2023

Good afternoon all. 

after my first ever trip to font I found myself hooked on a problem. One I’m not sure if I’m doing the correct way but the way I’m doing it seems incredibly hard and fun. It’s in Canche aux merciers, it’s a very very sharp crimpy climb on the left of what I will call the “beach area”

the problem is practically facing the “beach area” and has a red route up the back of the boulder (the number escapes me but I will keep searching my Photos for the number) 

it’s marked on the rock as blue 44 (I’d say sky blue and seems to be fairly newly marked) but when looking at photos of Canche aux merciers blue 44 climb it’s definitely not the right climb.

The climb itself seems to have two routes to it as there is 100% a route going straight up that someone a bit better than me could do, and seems to have a blue dot with an arrow above it further to the left hand side up a very positive side pull and into a very good pocket at the top. 
however the climb I’m trying goes straight up the face, the climb starts with two incredibly sharp crimps moves to a solid left hand that is more of a side pull than anything, then seems to have no more chalky marks above until you reach a ledge towards the top about a finger pad or a pad and a half deep. I’ve found a little route up there of the smallest sharpest crimps I can, but it’s a bit too spicy for me currently. A problem I will be going back to again to make sure it eventually goes. 

my question is, has anyone done this route before and if so can someone point me in the right direction of a name or a grade or any info at all about it?  
 

thanks

1
 Will Hunt 30 Apr 2023
In reply to Joeb:

If you know roughly what grade it is you might be able to quickly flick through the problems listed in grade order on Bleau.info and find it by looking at the photos. If you know it's, say, 6A give or take a grade and a wall then you might narrow it down to a manageable number of problems to look through.

https://bleau.info/canche

 mop449 30 Apr 2023
In reply to Joeb:

Hey,

Would be worth using the map feature on Boolder for this. I've linked the problem next to blue 44

https://www.boolder.com/en/p/3561

Good luck!

Danny

OP Joeb 02 May 2023

Thanks for the reply’s I’ll have a look through the two sites listed. 
Appreciate the advice!

 Yak-muhahahaha 04 May 2023

Ace of Spade 6b= ?

(linked below. 

 Wadam00 04 May 2023
In reply to Joeb:

This one?


OP Joeb 09 May 2023
In reply to Wadam00:

That’s the one! Straight up the face on the sharp Crimps. Any info? Thank you! 


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