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Tore my ACL, can I boulder again?

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 whole_lentil 02 May 2023

I tore my ACL about three weeks ago. From a lot of what I’ve read online, it seems bouldering may not be a good idea even after recovery. I’m not an athlete, and (was) in the improving/intermediate range but I love bouldering and really hope I’ll be able to get back it at some point. Does anyone have experience with something similar, and if you’ve also torn your ACL before and got back to bouldering what was the process like? Any insight would be appreciated

 im off 02 May 2023
In reply to whole_lentil:

Sorry to hear that. I reckon you'll get back to it if determined.

I've got similar but not same Ortho issues....arthritic ankle and meniscal degeneration in a knee.

Jumping repeatedly from high flares my joint pains. I find indoor bouldering ok tho as can down climb and avoid big jumps. Doing routes is fine too. maybe with loads of pads and spotters etc, outdoor bouldering would be less hammering on joints. A few jumps is ok for me but a session of falling off and landing makes things sore for a few days.

Working routes on a top rope solo is maybe another option I've tried.

I know a few climbers boulderers with knee replacement.

So....I suspect you'll continue to climb again but adapt to new situation.

Good luck with it.

My experience: it's the landing that flares me, climbing is ok. Get into climbing routes?

Post edited at 07:01
In reply to whole_lentil:

Obviously depends on different factors but it’s certainly possible to boulder following an ACL tear.  

I snapped my ACL and had surgery. I now have no problem with any form of activity, including bouldering. People have mixed views on surgery but for me absolutely no question it was the right thing. 

Whatever you do, get a good physio and do the exercises they give you.

Drop me a private message if you want to have more of a chat.

Good luck with the recovery. 

 midgen 02 May 2023
In reply to whole_lentil:

Tore my MCL a couple of years ago. I was able to start bouldering again carefully after a few months, but just easy stuff and carefully downclimbing. Any move that strained it like high steps, rockovers etc was just out for the first year, but you get plenty of warning if you're doing anything that'll strain it, so just stop if it hurts.

Took maybe 18 months before I really felt like I could trust the knee 100% again, but it's fine now.

Your mileage may vary. Make absolutely sure you follow your physio rehab as well, it's critical it heals properly.

 Wimlands 02 May 2023
In reply to whole_lentil:

I’ve done similarly, damaged ACL and had to have the operation to repair. 
 

Given me no problems since.
 

One key point is to do the physio…and I mean really do the physio. Pretty sure my repaired leg is still thinner than the other due to muscle loss at the time. It’s typically a 9 month recovery period and for me took longer.

 e.ms355 02 May 2023
In reply to whole_lentil:

I also tor my ACL (and other ligaments). had the ACL repaired with a hamstring graft and yes, it took a bit of time to trust my knee again and not think it would tear quickly, i'm back to climbing as i would have been before. the only weird thing is, i think as they took a hamstring tendon, i have trouble heel hooking on that side. but happy to boulder, jump down etc.. really no issues.

you just have to take your time with the physio, be consistent and don't try to push it too early, it will come back. like the post above said, REALLY do the physio, it makes all the difference!

 gritstonegurl 02 May 2023
In reply to whole_lentil:

With appropriate timing, physio and conditioning sessions you will most certainly be able to boulder again.

My partner completely destroyed his ACL, PCL, LCL and had severe damage to his Meniscus amongst other damage, he had LARS and a hamstring graft to repair them. 

He is now back bouldering at high level, he has worn a knee brace since his final surgery around 7 months ago, but has recently began bouldering without it. He was very committed to his physio and also gradual weight lifting to re-build muscle wastage that comes with time off being injured. 

He remains cautious about jumping from too high as well as uneven landings/gaps between pads and will pick his boulders accordingly. 


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