UKC

Best Crags in North Wales for rainy/wet weather

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 joedonn 29 Mar 2023

Hi everyone, I'm heading up to North Wales for a climbing trip from Monday-Friday next week.

Just wondering if some locals or experienced climbers knew some dry (ish) spots or quick drying crags that are still good when it's raining or has rained recently! 

Many thanks for your help and happy cragging 🧗‍♂️☀️

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 jezb1 29 Mar 2023
In reply to joedonn:

Beacon...

Or a more sensible answer is following the weather.

I tend to look at Met Office or whatever and check:
Llanberis
Llandudno
Tremadog
Holyhead
Llangollen

That'll give me an idea of where's best.

Slate is the classic drys quick option.

Hope you have better weather than we're currently "enjoying"!

Post edited at 14:41
 Derek Furze 29 Mar 2023
In reply to joedonn:

Carreg Hylldrem is famously rainproof and in the rain shadow.  Also one minute from the road.  Tremadoc generally is drier than the mountains and usually quick to dry up. Most of the coastal crags get better conditions than the hills (Anglesey or Llandudno area)

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OP joedonn 29 Mar 2023
In reply to jezb1:

How crazy, I was watching your videos just this morning about safely bailing off slate sport climbs in the rain  

Thanks for all the recommendations, hopefully it clears up a bit as the current plan is hammock camping...

Maybe see you out there if the weather clears up! 

OP joedonn 29 Mar 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

I've seen Carreg Hylldrem being mentioned in quite a few places, definitely one to keep in my back pocket just in case! Thanks for all the help and I'll be sure to visit this thread if it's pissing down 

Post edited at 14:40
 spartacus 29 Mar 2023
In reply to joedonn:

As others have said, slate dries quickly, bus stop quarry being a favourite. Holyhead mountain can be good and out of the mountain rain shadow.

 Alex Riley 29 Mar 2023
In reply to joedonn:

I live less than 5 minutes from Hylldrem, it definitely isn't quite as reliable as people seem to think. If the wind is blowing the wrong direction it can seep quite badly. In a light shower it's good, but after rain not so much, often Tremadog is drier.

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 kevin stephens 29 Mar 2023
In reply to joedonn:

Looking at your profile Tremadog gives some options even when it’s raining there. Striptease VS 5a and the FIRST pitch of Void ( goes at around E1 5b) are generally perma dry leading to fixed abseils. Lockwoods Chimney is traditionally climbed in heavy rain

 string arms 29 Mar 2023
In reply to joedonn:

 Hi

Try going onto my conditions on UKC for north wales and see what’s been logged the previous day. Gives you an idea what may be in nick

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OP joedonn 29 Mar 2023
In reply to kevin stephens:

Thanks very much for such personalized advice, I think Tremadog is definitely one to put on our list dry or rainy! We are also definitely going to give lockwoods chimney a poke as well as snakes + ladders!

OP joedonn 29 Mar 2023
In reply to string arms:

What a wicked feature, i'd never even given that tab a second look but what an ace tool for when weather gets a bit shitty!

 Mark Haward 30 Mar 2023
In reply to joedonn:

Most of the rock in the Moelwyns is very rough and can often be climbed even when wet / raining. South facing so dry fairly fast.


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