UKC

Best multipitch sport areas in the world

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 Ed Bright 03 Jul 2023

Where would you well travelled UKC-ers recommend that fits the following? Looking for an area that has...

  • 5+ pitches, the more the better
  • Sport or at least bolted belays
  • Good rock
  • 6b - 7b
  • Lots of the above to go at for a month

So far my list consists of 

1. Verdon...

 Martin Haworth 03 Jul 2023
In reply to Ed Bright:

Verdon.

Briancon(Ailefroide, Cerces, Tete d’Aval…)

 Robert Durran 03 Jul 2023
In reply to Ed Bright:

That place in Mexico (Potrero Chico?) I expect. Not been though. Sardinia? Some of Red Rocks?

 Will Rupp 03 Jul 2023
In reply to Ed Bright:

Taghia

 petegunn 03 Jul 2023
In reply to Ed Bright:

Fiesta de los Biceps (La Visera) (7a) 

7 pitches of the finest potatoe climbing! 

Post edited at 20:20
 Rick Graham 03 Jul 2023
In reply to Ed Bright:

Switzerland.

Most pages in the schweiz extreme guide book will keep you busy for a week.

I am sure dom o will be along in a mo with a  huge list, probably not replied yet as he will still be typing.

 GDes 03 Jul 2023
In reply to Ed Bright:

I've been to quite a few of the places mentioned here (not taghia though). None are as good as Verdon. 

 shantaram 03 Jul 2023
In reply to Ed Bright:

Corsica - Bavella area has a lifetimes worth of adventurous bolted and semi bolted multi pitch. The Restonica/Tavignano area around Corte has more of the same. 

In reply to Ed Bright:

There are quite a few in that range in the Blue Mountains, near Sydney. 

OP Ed Bright 04 Jul 2023
In reply to Ed Bright:

Thanks guys looks like not much of the day job is going to get done today...

Keep them coming!

 duncan 04 Jul 2023
In reply to Rick Graham:

> Most pages in the schweiz extreme guide book will keep you busy for a week.

To pick one example, Wendenstocke combines the rock and climbing quality of the Verdon with a mountain setting. The disadvantage of the latter is the mountain weather so it is good to have a plan B (through the tunnels to the Italian-speaking cantons or northern Italy itself?). You need to be climbing 7a or harder to get the most out of it and  the easier pitches can be sportingly bolted (also true in the Verdon). It is strangely unpopular with anglophone climbers considering it has some of the very best multipitch sport in the world.

I've not been to Potrero Chico but my impression is it is popular with North American climbers as much for the novelty of relatively easy multipitch sport and good mid-winter conditions as for the climbing. I'd be interested to hear the opinions of people who have been there and places like Taghia or Verdon.

The Long, Hard and Free thread on ukb has lots of good suggestions: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18533.0.html

 IainL 04 Jul 2023
In reply to Ed Bright:

Tuolumne, Joshua Tree

4
 Iamgregp 04 Jul 2023
In reply to Robert Durran:

Sardinia definitely, lots of very long very challenging multi pitch there.

El Portero Chico looks incredible, also never made it there, but not for want of trying!

 TheGeneralist 04 Jul 2023
In reply to IainL:

> Tuolumne, Joshua Tree

I loved both those places, but didn't get the impression they had a great deal of 5+ pitch routes.

 tjekel 04 Jul 2023
In reply to Ed Bright:

- Sanetsch (CH)

- Reiteralm North (Germany/Austria)

- Rätikon 

For some alpine stuff on incredible rock.

 jwi 04 Jul 2023
In reply to Ed Bright:

1. Verdon

2. Gorges du Taghia

The last requirement makes it hard to recommend anywhere else. Red rocks is good, but I would not stay there for a month. Wendenstöcke has unbelievably good rock, but after a few routes I would have had it, Riglos doesn’t have enough variety, Picos too spread out. Lots of great destinations in the western alps as well that doesn’t have enough for a month: the Gillardes, Ubaye, … etc.

 Kevster 04 Jul 2023
In reply to jwi:

How about lofoten?

Weather windows may cut that month to 2 weeks mind. 

 wbo2 04 Jul 2023
In reply to Kevster:Not much sport

 bonebag 04 Jul 2023
In reply to Ed Bright:

Consider Costa Blanca. It meets all your requirements.

 Fraser 04 Jul 2023
In reply to petegunn:

> 7 pitches of the finest potatoe climbing! 

Read the exam question, the OP's asking about an area, not a route.

2
 Ciro 04 Jul 2023
In reply to Fraser:

> Read the exam question, the OP's asking about an area, not a route.

That's very true, and Riglos gets very samey after a few days, but it should always be pointed out that if you don't climb Fiesta, you'll have regrets on your death bed.

There's lots of routes you can't quite believe exist until you experience them, but with Fiesta you still can't quite believe it afterwards.

 Robert Durran 04 Jul 2023
In reply to Ciro:

> It should always be pointed out that if you don't climb Fiesta, you'll have regrets on your death bed.

I won't.

6
 Fraser 04 Jul 2023
In reply to Ciro:

Don't worry, it's definitely on my 'to do' list!

 GDes 05 Jul 2023
In reply to Robert Durran:

You will. 

 Robert Durran 05 Jul 2023
In reply to GDes:

> You will. 

Oh no I won't. There are many climbs I might regret not having done on my deathbed, but none of them will be conglomerate potato pulling.

3
 GDes 05 Jul 2023
In reply to Robert Durran:

Oh you will. 


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