UKC

What are the best places to go in the UK if you wanted to do a mixture of sport climbing and bouldering? Are there any areas with a few destinations nearby that together offer a good mix of the two disciplines? Thanks!

My first thought would be Portland, loads of sport and bouldering at the cuttings.

Depends what you mean by "nearby". Brimham & Caley are within an hour's drive of Malham & Kilnsey. Ditto the Peak - Eastern or Western grit aren't far from Cheedale/Ravenstor/Water cum Jolly in a car, but aren't really within comfortable walking distance carrying a mat.

What kind of sport grades are you after?

Pen trwyn is a good bet for north wales. Bouldering in the cave of justice right next to Mayfair wall and the whole of the ormes.

St bees. The bouldering is great, the sport is, erm, sandy and weird. But it’s a nice place. 

raven tor if you’ve got the beans. Parasellas cave if you also got the beans. Seem to recall it all being nails in the cave but the sport and trad are both great. 

Another vote for North Wales! That said, most big areas (Peak, Yorkshire, North Wales) will have a load of bouldering and some good sport.

I could imagine Gairloch would be a strong possibility for this. Again depends what distance you'd want to cover but within an hours drive you'd have a lot of options.

There are some decent sport climbing venues in the NW now but it will depend on your grade whether it's worth the long drive and how many options you'd have. The only bouldering in the area that I'd class as a destination venue is Torridon.

Lovely though it is there are definitely better areas to combine the two disciplines.

Thanks everyone! I was sort of asking thinking about possible destinations for a week or so long trip, but these are all great suggestions.

Am after easy sport, and easy bouldering too...

You are doing it wrong!  

For south wales Dinas rock would be the place to go.  If you were feeling strong you could link Eliots 8C into one of the sport routes above 😃

Easy sport will tend to narrow down the choices a bit. So for instance the Peak District has tons of bouldering of all grades but for lower grade sport you might end up in a big ugly quarry which might not be what you are after, unless that's you thing of course. The Yorkshire Dales has some quite good lower grade sport crags like Robin Proctors Scar, Moughton Nab (granted that is above a big quarry) and Giggleswick and is not that far (depending on what you consider far) from some good gritstone bouldering places such as the crags above Skipton or a bit further away Brimham, Almscliff, Caley. Will you have your own transport?

I know there has been a lot of sport developed in N Wales but can't comment on the grades.

Easy sport and easy bouldering can be found in the Calver area of the eastern Peak.  Horseshoe Quarry is the obvious sport venue, but nearby sport venues like Horse Thief also have easy stuff. 

For bouldering,  Curbar Edge,  Baslow Edge,  Froggatt Edge all have nice problems. You might even find some enjoyment on Minus Ten wall at  Stoney Middleton, but I wouldn't bet on it.  Burbage South Valley Boulders are not far away either.