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Canadian Rockies guidebooks

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 pastaisyellow 08 Apr 2023

Hey,

Going out to the Canadian rockies in August and want to do multi-pitch climbs on mountains (similar to the Dolomites or Augille Rouge), just wondering if anyone could recommend any guidebooks?

Cheers!

 Doug 08 Apr 2023
In reply to pastaisyellow:

I have a copy of Sean Dougherty’s “Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies” but unless its been updated its likely to be out of date now. You might find https://www.summitpost.org/canadian-rockies-alpine-climbs/371653 &/or https://www.summitpost.org/object_list.php?parent_id=215361&canonical=1... a useful starting point

edit to add - just checked, “Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies” has been updated from my 1991 edition, latest edition seems to be 2010

Post edited at 20:00
 George Ormerod 10 Apr 2023
In reply to Doug:

I don't think Dougherty’s book has been updated, just reprinted.  It's known colloquially here as the "Book of Lies" and if you can find a copy, get more recent information from a source such as Summit Post, or one of the several Facebook groups. 

Unfortunately there isn't one guidebook to rule them all, but I would recommend:

Northen Exposure - rock climbing in Jasper NP

Banff Rock by Chris Perry (you can download Bow Valley Rock for free, here: https://www.banffrock.ca/ )

11,000 of the Canadian Rockies

Search Gripped for new routes - here's one I recommend - https://gripped.com/routes/achilles-spire-is-a-big-5-8-rockies-route-you-sh...

Rogers Pass Alpine (not in the Rockies, but about an hour and a half West of Lake Louise), an amazing alpine climbing area on some excellent rock

Bugaboos - also not in the Rockies, but easily accessible from any of the Rockies climbing bases 

 redjerry 10 Apr 2023
In reply to pastaisyellow:

"Dolomites or Augille Rouge"
I loved my times climbing in the rockies, but Dolomites or Chamonix it most certainly isn't.
The Dougherty book had enough (and accurate enough) info to get up stuff, but was very bare bones and the (US) commitment ratings were laughably understated.
Incredibly beautiful area.

 George Ormerod 10 Apr 2023
In reply to redjerry:

> I loved my times climbing in the rockies, but Dolomites or Chamonix it most certainly isn't.

That's a good thing, there's about 100 times fewer climbers.


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