UKC

Hello!

After a rope recommendation that can hopefully cover the majority of activities in Chamonix. We're probably heading to Aiguilles Rouges for routes such as:

• Frison Roche
• Single pitches across the Brevent Crags
• Tartiflette / Raclette
• Cocher-Cochon
• Fraise des boatchs
• Etc..

I'm guessing 2x50s would be the general ropes of choice, would these also stand us in good stead should we wish to progress to more classic routes with glacier travel etc in later seasons?

The majority of the single pitch sports climbs at Brevent seem to be ~30m. Would we be better off picking up triple rated 2x60s? Especially if wanting to set up a TR.

Currently looking at the Beal Opera 8.5, but wanted to get some thoughts/recommendations before pulling the (expensive) trigger.

Thanks!

Millions of options...

I do those sorts of things with 2x 50m:

     One is a triple rated 8.7mm Mammut.

     The other a skinnier/lighter 8mm (you could go slimmer).

That gives plenty of options for doing classic mixed routes or going lightweight, but still good for double rope stuff.  I don't use 60ms for the weight thing.

Sometimes when scrambling around I wish the thinner rope was 60m so I could get down the odd 30m-ish ab with just a single, but that is quite rare.

Everyone develops their own favourite system.  Depends on how your alpine adventures progress.  eg. I walk in a lot and don't use lifts much.

You can always change systems in a few years when you work out what works for you.  I change every few years.  Also, as you age and your body craps out you do different things, and need different ropes.

Good luck. Have fun.

If you have a 60m rope, then you're not wishing that you bought it. The Aiguilles Rouges is not that long a way in for what most people do to begin with, so the weight is not the major consideration.

i’ve done all those routes and loads more (Argentiere Aiguilles and valley crags etc.) with a single 70m sport rope. Loads less faff than double ropes).

With the exception of setting up bottom / top ropes at Brevent a 50 metre single is fine for all those rock routes. Great for classic alpine routes you aspire to as well, would need to be dry treated for alpine routes. Decathlon often have some good  options. A triple rated can work well in this situation but is likely to be more expensive and to wear out more quickly. However, tends to be lighter and works well if then paired with a half rope - see below..

    When you do routes requiring longer abseils then double 50m ropes work well. To save money initially you could use the single ( or triple rated ) as above and when on the alpine routes pair it with one half rope if required.

   For valley sports cragging that don't require abseil descents ( including Brevent; not strictly valley I know ) a single 60 metre sport rope works well.

My 2p worth after spending a few years living out there before

I personally wouldn't give single pitch climbing much weight in the decision, as you'll likely be doing that on odd days here and there, likely when too knackered to countenance anything else or when the weather iffy.  (By Brevent single pitch I think perhaps you mean the stuff up top that sits on either side of the path down).  Chamonix is a touch limited when it comes to smaller scale cragging ( think the rockfax guidebook states that). If funds and luggage allowance can stretch that far it nice to have a longer / thicker single rope optimised for single pitch that can take a beating and you don't mind the extra weight.  That way if you do trash your ropes on a big climb you have a solution for the next day without having to walk into Snells and get relieved of a fortune, and you aren't adding wear to your best mountain ropes on top ropes and dusty ground around Gaillands. Also, 60m might be long enough for single pitch sport in Cham but it wont be in lots of other places you may go to?

Agree at least 1 rope should be triple rated for the times when 1 rope will be enough.

I used to have 2x60s but agree that 50s be fine almost all the time. 60 gives you a bit extra rope for abseil cockups or especially when only with 1 rope it might be nice to have the 30m abseil capability, and perhaps to chop off if required but I'll never get back all the time wasted with extra rope manipulation's, tangles etc.

Interesting, I'm only going off the guidebook, but La Raclette apparently has a 40m abseil in - I guess there's an intermediate station?

it’s a while ago, and it was probably rope stretch or some intermediate tat.

I will stick my neck out and say, that you can do most, if not all, routes in Aiguilles Rouges with a 60 m single rope.
 

Edit to add: agree that there is a 40 m abseil on La Raclette 

I climb a lot round the valley, both Aiguilles Rouges and the Chamonix Aiguilles.

I am currently climbing on either a 70m sport rope, or twin 60m half ropes (I have the 7.5mm Decathlon ones). 

If I had to chose which to take, I would go with the twin 60m ropes, as you can regularly abseil two pitches in one abseil (many routes have bolt belays 30m apart).