UKC

I'm looking at an area of crags called Montanejos-Mijares above Valencia.

There's a campsite in the town of Montanejos.

Has anybody been there?

Would that campsite / that town give easy access to the 700 routes that seem the be around there? (More specifically would that town provide good access to loads of good routes in the F6 range for a week long clip trip)?

Peaky

In reply to peaky:

I've had it in mind for years but so far not been. I have an old local guide book from 1989 with an introduction in English and some lovely hand drawn maps implying much of the climbing is very local to the town. A graded list at the back, of only the then single pitch climbs has about 40 under 6a, 40 at 6a and 40 at 6a+. That's of a stated total of 350 routes - many many more now of course - a quick look on line suggests 1400 climbs, a great looking hostal and hot springs - sounds great.

You're very welcome to the guide book (for a bit of early research) for the price of a pint to cover postage and the effort!

In reply to Martin Bennett:

The climbing is easy walking distance from the town. The refugio is even nearer and is run (or was?) by the author of the topo. Pretty sure you'd be able to buy it there. I'm sure there's at least a week's worth of 6s...! Grades are tough though.

In reply to peaky:

In reply to jon:

The climbing is great, the place is quiet (sleepy even), the grading used to have a reputation for being nails but has been brought into alignment with elsewhere now (anomalies exist still). It's very pretty.

The bolting is good and there are many newer areas requiring a short drive but the main gorge is walking from town (and goes of for miles). There is a newer guidebook. 

There are "hot" springs for swimming (20C) all year.

IIRC the refugio is often closed and a bit pricey for staying in.  I didn't know there was a campsite, I've always stayed in a rental apartment when I've gone.

90% of visitors are day trippers for the spa water - it's very quiet.

You can rent mountain bikes in town and there are good trails around.

In reply to peaky:

I spent a couple of months there in the late 80's. We did a load of multi-pitch (3-4 pitches mostly) upper 6's and low 7's that were really excellent.
Mind you, I note that quite a few of those routes (eg solo para tus ojos) were upgraded several notches (ie 2-4) so not sure how many would be in the 6's now.

In reply to peaky:

Montanejos is one of our favourite climbing destinations in the whole of Spain! It was once "the in place" but has been supercede by Chulilla - meanwhile there's been a load of new developments which you can usually enjoy in solitude (rather than the crowds of Chulilla)

It has a reputation for "old school" grades, but that's also true of the older areas at Chulilla - more recent routes are more amenable. If you are operating at less than 7a I'd suggest there's more to go at in Montanejos. Here's a couple of sample crags

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/02/28/montanejos-laberinto-de-los-dra...

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/02/26/montanejos-caverna-magica-and-m...

In terms of campsites, the most convenient open-all-year option we've found is Camping Navajas. It's a half hour's drive from Montanejos but opens up a load more cragging eg Jerica. Here's a week's worth for starters from a Jan / Feb trip this year. 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2023/01/20/rock-hungry-and-windswept-climb...

The last few times we've visited Montanejos over the winter the Rifugio has been closed - it would be super convenient if open! There used to be a designated overnight spot, but that had also closed on our last visit. Interested to hear if you do find a campsite in town. 

In reply to peaky:

It’s an easy walk from the town to most of the crags, but having a car opens up a few more. We went just after Xmas and many of the main cliffs, which are in a gorge, were shady and cold, so being able to go to the outlying areas was essential. 

Some of the grades are still very hard, and some of the bolting is a bit spaced. But there’s enough safe and well graded climbing to keep you busy. The rock is very good and parts of the main gorge have a cool post-industrial atmosphere, kind of like the slate quarries. 

In reply to dominic o: I agree with pretty much all of Dominic’s post . It’s one of my favourite places in Spain . I lent out my guide book sone years ago and never got it back but the grades were at the very least 2 grades off . I always wondered why it wasn’t more popular as the number of multi pitch routes a short walk from the Refugio is huge . Back in the day I think I had 4/5 trips in as many years . The Refugio was a bit hit and miss . We stayed once and it was full of Spanish climbers , the craic was excellent and we didn’t want to leave . On another visit it was half full of scummy dirt bags , one of whom we caught stealing our food . Turned out They were mates of the owner . If I went again I would stay in town .

In reply to peaky:

In case useful: https://rockrun.com/blogs/the-flash-rock-run-blog/climbing-in-montanejos-sp...

In reply to peaky:

In reply to peaky: It’s mainly old-school, and in need of re-equipping. A few sectors have been refreshed in the last few years - there’s a mini-topo you can get in the tabac for these. A few OK sectors mentioned by others, but many sectors have been abandoned… Take a look at the UKC logs to see how few routes have been logged in the last 20+ years. Nice thermal spring to swim in. 3 or 4 days worth of decent climbing in low 6’s. Lots of days of poor climbing in the low 6’s!

In reply to ATL: Whilst not having the knowledge to agree or disagree re Montanejos I’m not sure that using UKC is always a good indicator of the popularity of a place - particularly outwith the UK. I’m not long back from Val Pennavaire and UKC has pretty few logs yet the area is clearly very popular, just not with UKC users. I can think of several Spanish crags that fall into the same category yet are hugely popular.

In reply to peaky:

Lots of good climbing at Montanejos. I love it and have visited regularly. As others have said some of the very old routes have pretty fierce grading but the newer stuff is graded fairly.  Plenty of good climbing is F6s - much more than at Chullila (in my opinion). 

Its worth noting that Montanejos is often a few degrees colder than many costa blanca crags - but it has an abundance of sunny and shady areas.  In winter the crags are usually pretty quiet.  The river is great for a swim and looks magical on cold mornings.

In reply to Neil Morrison:

Fair enough - I agree that UKC is far from a perfect indicator. I was there last week, though, and can think of so many places with better climbing...

In reply to peaky:

Thanks to everyone who responded. Some great links and info.

Does anyone know if thereis a topo on line?

In reply to peaky:

The Crag has pretty good coverage https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/spain/montanejos and the latest guidebook has made strides towards rebalancing some of the more sandbag grades. 

In reply to redjerry:

True, I remember doing solo para tus ojos, 6c at the time. Felt more like 7b 😂

In reply to peaky:

We went to Alto Mijares 2 years ago ...in December..it was absolutely freezing...-8 overnight..there is a campsite but there was an issue with water availability and everything i.e.pipes/showers etc were frozen solid. It's a lovely spot though. There is a dedicated guidebook we bought in this country. Never been to Montenejos.  I believe they are both regarded as summer crags by Spanish climbers. 

In reply to RachaelH:

Thanks for your posting; I've sent you a PM.

(Hope that we'll be considerably warmer in March).... 

In reply to RachaelH:

The mediterranean or eastern Spain (with some exceptions in the pair of knees) is best avoided in summer, the Atlantic is fine however.