UKC

Arriving in Saint Malo (NW France) from Jersey on Friday evening, for a week of Sport climbing.

We like to climb early in the AM with a finish early afternoon. So I  was looking for W/N facing crags with routes between 6a-6c and ideally located close to a shady campsite – not mandatory as we have car so can drive to climbs.

Was hoping to travel down to Orgon as an abundance of West facing climbs and nice campsite for approaches on foot but forecast is for temperature around 35c so this might be a bit much.

Have earmarked lots of places in the French/Spanish Pyrenees, Dordogne, Jura Mountains, Luxembourg and plenty aside…but would appreciate any suggestions for hot summer crags.

Thanks!

Wishlist is:

N/W aspect (or with good tree coverage)

In the 6s grade wise

Campsite nearby

Enough to 4/5 days of climbing

France/Spain/Lux/Switz

If you've not been, Clecy and Mortain should be OK as they have loads of trees by them. Not really the pocketed overhanging limestone you're probably after, but useful place to stop at on the way back from the alps. You'd struggle to fill 4-5 days at grade 6 and, although bolted, Clecy feels like a UK crag. Clecy has a nice campsite <10 minutes walk from the crag. I can't recommend anywhere like what you're after. Saffres (on the way to Dijon) isn't very inspiring either.

Should come to Guernsey

Thanks! Could be ideal stop off for journey back. I'd been looking a La Fosse Arthur which I see is close to both Clecy and Mortain after checking the map.

Definitely keen for a weekend of Trad in Guernsey at some point! Imagine it's fairly similar to Jersey sea cliffs? 🤔

Mozzies are desperate this year in SW France Pyrenees. Climbing in the trees not advised !

Pyrenees granite was working great a week ago when I visited Cavallers & Cap de Long

Berdorf in Luxembourg. No sure about grades but it's all shaded by trees and in a kind of gorge, and has a nice campsite in walking distance (10 mins). 

Edit: Just checked, looks like there's plenty at the grades you're looking for, and its also N/W facing.  

Good to know! Have traded the mozzies for the hornets in the Dordogne as looking drier here.

Very keen for Cavallers at some point. Heard the road to it was a bit of a nightmare.

Thanks. Got the guidebook for Berdorf but forecast was wet throughout the week. Looks like a good base for a week in the future though.

Have ended up in the Dordogne at Ceou. Brilliant West facing crag with 180 routes if you're ever in the area! 

The last few km are single track tarmac with passing bays, but no significant potholes. Hardly a nightmare !??