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Quick US/North American climbing trip - where to go?

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 Trevers 07 Nov 2023

I'm visiting San Francisco in December for a conference from the 11th to 15th. While I'm out there, I'd very much like to visit somewhere and get some climbing done. I'm looking for somewhere in the region with some classic routes, preferably trad and preferably multi pitch, in the range of 5.7 to 5.9. Obviously I'm limited by the time of year, so it would have to be somewhere that will have reliably good conditions in mid December.

The other main requirement is that it's logistically easy, since it's only a fleeting visit and my main focus is on the conference. Obviously I'm committed to either hiring a car or flying somewhere, but once that's over I'd like it to be pretty straightforward. I won't have any camping gear so bunkhouses/hostels or cheap hotels etc. would be necessary. Last year following the same conference I flew down to Monterrey and went to El Potrero Chico. Once I'd got a taxi out from the airport to the accommodation, everything was incredibly easy, with food, beer and climbing all a short walk from the accommodation. Something similar to that would be ideal.

Thanks in advance for all suggestions.

3
 Phil1919 07 Nov 2023
In reply to Trevers:

You could attend by zoom and climb locally  : )

13
OP Trevers 07 Nov 2023
In reply to Phil1919:

> You could attend by zoom and climb locally  : )

And render the point of attending a conference moot in the first place, but it is an option I suppose.

Post edited at 09:35
1
 dunnyg 07 Nov 2023

Red rocks, Joshua Tree, maybe round Moab but not sure what the multipoint stuff is like in full on winter in Moab.

Nothing at Joshua Tree is massive though in terms of multipitch.

 timjones 07 Nov 2023
In reply to dunnyg:

Red Rock would be about the closest match to your requirements, there is some great climbing there but if it rains you need to stay off the rock for a few days to avoid damaging it.

If you are prepared to climb in the cold some of the lower cliffs between Yosemite Valley and El Portal may be an option without having to travel too far but you will be at the mercy of the weather.

 seankenny 07 Nov 2023
In reply to Trevers:

December isn’t a great time of year for long routes in the US - the desert gets cold too! If you can cope with doing shorter routes then you might have more options. Joshua Tree is good at that time and easy to access (you can stay in a motel in town). Maybe somewhere in Arizona like Mount Lemon (I’ve not been so guessing here, I’m sure Dominic will be along in a moment with some good suggestions).

Personally in your situation I would go to Heuco Tanks but I suspect that might not be your thing. 

 dominic o 08 Nov 2023
In reply to seankenny:

Haha - thanks for the plug Sean!

Actually, you pretty much nailed my suggestions already! J-Tree and Red Rocks are both known as winter destinations. Both fab climbing (RR probably better at the grade for the OP) but I haven't been to either in December so can't offer a personal recommendation.

We have spent Christmas climbing on Mount Lemmon in Tucson, however, and I can certainly recommend that! The climate is as reliable as you're going to get in the States at that time, and there's a tonne of great climbing easily accessed from town.

We've also visited at Thanksgiving (end November) and climbed every day. Here's a few snapshots from that trip. 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2015/12/05/squeezing-the-lemmon/

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2015/12/05/pinhead/

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2015/12/05/the-ruins/

By coincidence we're on our way there now, so check out the blog in a couple of days time for some real-time updates https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/ and you can also have a browse through New Mexico which would also offer some sunny December options (but not such a concentration of crags accessed from one centre) Cheers, Dom 

 dominic o 24 Nov 2023
In reply to dominic o:

Finally got around to making a Tucson post. Temps in the mid 20s when we left last week, so we were climbing in the shade between 5,000ft and 8,000ft. Fab spot (3,500 routes on Mt Lemmon alone) and friendly people.

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2023/11/15/tucson-mt-lemmon-and-the-farmho...

Cheers, Dom 


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